Owyhee "wows''

The Owyhee River only has streamflows suitable for rafting during May and early June. (JULIA ANDERSON/The Columbian)

From the put-in at Rome, Ore. to the take-out 48 miles and 41/2 days later at Birch Creek Ranch, a float trip on the Owyhee River is a series of "wows.".

Around every river bend, it was, "Wow, can you believe that massive canyon wall.

"Wow, take a look at the rocky outcrop.

"Wow, the Native Americans must have loved this place," and "Wow, check out the mountain goats."

Some might not want the Owyhee to be "discovered" because of its spectacular remoteness in the high desert region of southeastern Oregon, some 500 miles from Portland-Vancouver. Only four other parties were on our segment of the main river during the week of our float in mid-May.

But the river is a sidelight to the main attractions...stunning 1,000-foot-high canyon walls, fascinating geology (ancient sedimentary and much newer lava flows), a heirarchy of birds from chatty shore creatures to soaring vultures, and some really good bass fishing.

Never mind the fun of camping each evening at water's edge on a series of broad sandy beaches.

The most interesting float on the Owyhee is — as the crow flies — just 90 miles from Boise. But getting there by road is a bit more challenging, especially if you're coming from the coast. The favorite put-in at Rome, Ore. is a 495-mile trek from Portland-Vancouver through LaGrande, Ontario and Jordan Valley, Ore. Then add on 30 miles of dirt road to Rome.

Snake tributary

The Owyhee River is a 280-mile long tributary of the Snake River that begins in northern Nevada, then meanders north through remote parts of southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon.

Some compare Owyhee's canyons as second only to Arizona's Grand Canyon for their drama and diversity.

It all was definitely a "wow." for everone in our party, even the repeaters.

The U.S. Bureau of Land Management divides the Owyhee into five segments. The most popular, most floatable and scenic stretches 48 miles through remote southeastern Oregon between Rome and the Birch Creek Ranch take out.

Serious boaters would not call this segment any kind of a whitewater challenge.

With mostly pool-and-drop features, the river offers a few Class III rapids that get a bit more challenging if the water is low, at or below 900 fps (feet per second) flow.

The Owyhee lives in an open, windswept place mostly free from human interference. No cell phones...nothing to detract from the spectacular landscape, the wildlife or the experience of being "out there."

A five-day float trip on the main Owyhee had plenty of attraction for someone who has camped, fished and horse packed around the Northwest.

Part of the advance logistics must include setting up shuttle service to get your vehicles moved from Rome to the take out at Birch Creek. Eva Matteri in Jordan Valley is a good bet. Cost is about $120 per vehicle.

If you plan right, at the end of your trip you can add on the three-day Jordan Valley "Big Loop" Rodeo always held on the third weekend of May. It's a sweet rodeo with a tremendous authentic feel. Wear jeans, bring a cowboy hat and boots and you'll feel right at home.

Older spelling of Hawaii

The Owyhee gets its name from an older spelling of "Hawaii." It was named for three Hawaiian trappers working for the British-owned Northwest Co., who were sent to explore the uncharted river.

They failed to return to a rendezvous near the Boise River and were never seen again. The earliest surviving record of the name is found on a map dating to 1825. The Owyhee is a wild river component of the National Wild and Scenic River System, designated by Congress in 1984.

A brochure from the U.S. Bureau of Land Management breaks the Owyhee into five segments, the first beginning near its headwaters in northeastern Nevada. From there the river heads northeast with its most floatable segments on the main river from Crutcher Crossing to Birch Creek. The trip is self-permitting through the BLM.

The only raftable time of year is about six weeks from May to early June. Checking river flows at a BLM web site is part of trip planning. But even at lower water, somewhere above 900 cubic feet of flow per second, the river can be tricky.

During our float, we saw two "raft wraps" where rafts ended up pinned against giant boulders and had to be muscled off. Another raft flipped after going sideways over a big rapid. For all of that, the river is secondary to the scenery, the hot springs, the Indian petroglyphs and the hiking opportunities.

In our four nights and five days, we:

• Soaked in Lambert Hot Spring at mile-22.

• Climbed Pruitt's Castle, a rocky outcrop at mile-25 that offers diverse geology and panoramic vistas a thousand feet above the river. Lava flows throughout the canyon area are as recent as 20,000 years ago and overlay ancient sedimentary sea beds hundreds of millions of years old. The colors, the layers, the rock varieties in a soaring canyon are unique in the Northwest.

• Explored an abandoned pioneer ranch in the canyon at Owyhee Crossing, an old stagecoach stop at mile-three and a "rustler's" cabin at mile-23.

• Admired and pondered over the Native American petroglyphs at several unmarked sites along the river.

Our "Field Guide to Western Birds" was never far from reach as we enjoyed leisurely points in the float. Swallows, fly-catchers, killdeer, red-winged black birds, finches and geese with newly hatched goslings, abounded. Chukar, pheasant and ducks cackled and quacked at us along the way.

Soaring birds of prey were the most interesting with their dark outlines silhouetted against the big overarching blue sky. Distinguishing big hawks from big vultures and realizing there are subsets of both, made identification from 1,000-feet distances a lot of fun, but a frustrating guessing game.

Riverbank camping

Sandy riverbank camps offered plenty of room for tents and camp-kitchen set-up. Portable leak-proof toilets are mandatory and so are metal fire pans, which made evenings around the campfire a lot of fun, especially for the kids with us.

Because the Owyhee is only raftable for a few weeks, adventurers must prepare for a range of late spring weather possibilities from cold rain and cool temperatures in the 50s to hot summery clear skies in the 80s. We had both, plus wind. Rowing downriver was a tough go on one day because of the wind was blowing upriver in gusts and swirls.

Be sure to bring a fishing rod for bass. They live in the murky, frothy water near the riverbank and are fun to catch. We caught 11 in the 7- to 10-inch range during five days using a spinning rod. Flyfishing is more work because of the varied river terrain, shoreline brush and wind.

We ran across a few snakes, but only one rattlesnake, which ran off into the sagebrush.

If you bring a dog, put a flea and tick collar on him. Owyhee ticks like dogs. Also, a doggy life preserver is not a bad idea.

While the Owyhee provides experienced rafters with some moderately interesting rapids, the spectacular geology, the historic sites and abundant animal life along its banks are the real reward.

— Kenneth Giles contributed to this story.