Owyhee 'wows'

A high-desert stream, the Owyhee River has streamflows suitable for rafting during May and early June. (JULIA ANDERSON/The Columbian)

(Ken Giles)

From the put-in at Rome, Ore., to the take-out 48 miles and 4½ days later at Birch Creek Ranch, a float trip on the Owyhee River is a series of "wows."

Around every bend, it was, "Wow, can you believe that massive canyon wall?

"Wow, take a look at the rocky outcrop.

"Wow, the Native Americans must have loved this place," and "Wow, check out the mountain goats."

Some might not want the Owyhee to be "discovered" because of its spectacular remoteness in the high-desert region of southeastern Oregon, about 500 miles from Portland-Vancouver.

Only four other parties were on our segment of the main river during the week of our float in mid-May.

But the river is a sidelight to the main attractions . . . stunning 1,000-foot-high canyon walls, fascinating geology (ancient sedimentary and much newer lava flows), a heirarchy of birds from chatty shore creatures to soaring vultures, and some good bass fishing.

Never mind the fun of camping at water's edge on a series of broad sandy beaches.

The most interesting float on the Owyhee is — as the crow flies — just 90 miles from Boise. But getting there by road is a bit more challenging, especially if you're coming from the coast.

The favorite put-in at Rome, Ore., is a 495-mile trek from Portland-Vancouver through LaGrande, Ontario and Jordan Valley, Ore.

Then add on 30 miles of dirt road to Rome.

Some compare Owyhee's canyons as second only to Arizona's Grand Canyon for drama and diversity.

It all was definitely a "wow" for everone in our party, even the repeaters.

The U.S. Bureau of Land Management divides the Owyhee into five segments. The most-popular, most-floatable and scenic segment stretches 48 miles through remote southeastern Oregon between Rome and the Birch Creek Ranch take out.

Serious boaters would not call this segment any kind of a whitewater challenge.

With mostly pool-and-drop features, the river offers a few Class III rapids that get a bit more challenging if the water is low, at or below 900 fps (feet per second) flow.

The Owyhee lives in an open, windswept place mostly free from human interference. No cell phones . . . nothing to detract from the spectacular landscape, the wildlife or the experience of being "out there."

A five-day float trip on the main Owyhee had plenty of attraction for someone who had camped, fished and horse packed around the Northwest.

Part of the advance logistics must include setting up shuttle service to get your vehicles moved from Rome to the take out at Birch Creek.

Eva Matteri in Jordan Valley is a good bet. Cost is about $120 per vehicle.

If you plan right, at the end of your trip you can add on the three-day Jordan Valley "Big Loop" Rodeo, always held on the third weekend of May.

It's a sweet rodeo with a tremendous authentic feel. Wear jeans, bring a cowboy hat and boots, and you'll feel right at home.

The only raftable time of year is about six weeks from May to early June.

Checking river flows at a BLM Web site is part of trip planning. But even at lower water, somewhere above 900 cubic feet of flow per second, the river can be tricky.

In our four nights and five days, we:

n Soaked in Lambert Hot Spring at mile 22.

n Climbed Pruitt's Castle, a rocky outcrop at mile 25 that offers diverse geology and panoramic vistas a thousand feet above the river.

Lava flows throughout the canyon area are as recent as 20,000 years old and overlay ancient sedimentary sea beds hundreds of millions of years old. The colors, the layers, the rock varieties in a soaring canyon are unique in the Northwest.

n Explored an abandoned pioneer ranch in the canyon at Owyhee Crossing, an old stagecoach stop at Mile three and a "rustler's" cabin at Mile 23.

n Admired and pondered the Native American petroglyphs at several unmarked sites along the river.

Our "Field Guide to Western Birds" was never far from reach as we enjoyed leisurely points in the float.

Swallows, fly-catchers, killdeer, red-winged black birds, finches and geese with newly hatched goslings abounded. Chukar, pheasant and ducks cackled and quacked at us along the way.

Soaring birds of prey were the most interesting with their dark outlines silhouetted against the big overarching blue sky. Distinguishing big hawks from big vultures and realizing there are subsets of both, made identification from 1,000-feet distances a lot of fun, but a frustrating guessing game.

Sandy riverbank camps offered plenty of room for tents and camp-kitchen set-up. Portable leak-proof toilets are mandatory and so are metal fire pans, which made evenings around the campfire a lot of fun, especially for the kids with us.

— Kenneth Giles contributed to this story.