Why: Laurelwood Public House & Brewery is known for brewing Oregon’s first certified organic beer. Beyond this, it has grown to include five Portland locations and recently moved into Washington with the opening of a restaurant in Battle Ground Village. The menu at Laurelwood reflects an upscale personality with dishes such as Hazelnut Crusted Pacific Rockfish and a Butternut Squash Ravioli, but kids can still get their chicken strips and grilled cheese. It is committed to using organic products and naturally raised, hormone- and antibiotic-free beef, as well as Draper Valley chicken.
Atmosphere: The building’s footprint is a simple rectangle, but the public space has been partitioned into a bar, a main dining room with a play space for small children and a semi-private dining room. Booths and tables can accommodate large parties. The floor is no-frills concrete, but large pendant light fixtures with golden shades lend elegance. Light and dark wood tones complement the atmosphere and add a sense of sustainability. Soon-to-be installed are the fermenters that will produce one or two seasonal brews for the Battle Ground location.
What I tried: I sampled a cup of tomato basil soup, which was the soup of the day at the time of my visit, the Goat Cheese Stuffed Risotto Cakes, Baby Back Ribs, and, for dessert, the Pot de Crème.
The highlight of my meal was the tomato basil soup. The substantial texture was beyond broth and bisque, yet didn’t require chewing. The tomatoes’ simple essence was nonetheless rich.
The Baby Back Ribs came with jalapeño mac-and-cheese and green beans. The mac-and-cheese was heavily buttered fusilli pasta topped with cheddar cheese and featuring very small bits of jalapeño. The ribs were very lean and uncharred. The Organic Free Range Red BBQ sauce that doused the ribs had a mild flavor that complemented the meat without overwhelming it with sweetness. The green beans were fresh and slightly crunchy.
The Goat Cheese Stuffed Risotto Cakes entree was greasy, with basil oil drizzled around the already oily cakes. The layered elements included spinach, portobello mushroom, and tomato-olive-artichoke ragout. It was colorful and beautifully presented, but the only flavors that came through were cheese and artichoke.
The dessert had an unappetizing greenish-brown color, but it tasted similar to pumpkin pie.
Menu highlights: Laurelwood offers a Shredded BBQ Pork Sandwich glazed with Organic Free Range Red BBQ sauce, and a Lemongrass Grilled Chicken and Shrimp Salad. Appetizers include Buffalo Fried Pacific Oysters and a house-made Pretzels & Sausage Fondue that comes with Hop Monkey IPA cheddar fondue and apple-cabbage slaw. Egg dishes, French toast, pancakes, biscuits and gravy, and oatmeal are among the breakfast options.
Cost: Appetizers range from $3.50 for chips and salsa to $9.95 for a quesadilla. Salads are $3.95 to $10.95. Some are available in a half-size order, and grilled chicken breast may be added for an additional $5. Soup is $3 for a cup and $5 for a bowl. Burgers and sandwiches come with a choice of beer-battered fries, soup of the day or organic mixed greens and cost $7.95 to $13.95. Entrees are $10.95 to $16.95. Daily happy-hour menu items are all $4. Desserts are $5 to $7. Breakfast items run $6.95 to $14.95.
Other observations: The waitress always had a smile on her face and stopped by often to make sure all was well. Although I was told the Goat Cheese Stuffed Risotto Cakes were a specialty, most diners on my visit were ordering burgers. I couldn’t help but feel as though I were missing out. You might want to bring a jacket because the restaurant can be drafty.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Brunch is served 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday only. Happy hour is 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. until closing daily.
Information: 360-723-0937 or laurelwoodbrewpub.com.
Where: 1401 S.E. Rasmussen Blvd., Battle Ground.
Health score: Laurelwood Public House & Brewery has received a pre-opening inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection sometime in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
