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Dining Out: Sabaidee easily earns a return visit

The Columbian
Published: December 10, 2010, 12:00am

Why: The Lo family opened Sabaidee Laotian & Thai Cuisine restaurant in October. Omay Lo says the Lao B.B.Q Chicken, which is marinated in coconut milk, garlic, lemon grass and Lao-Thai herbs, and the Papaya Salad are two dishes that set Sabaidee apart from others.

Atmosphere: A wide chocolate-brown crown molding tops white walls which are decorated with several embellished Thai tapestries and a few photos. Tablecloths are green and blue with a touch of gold metallic thread. Seating consists of tables and chairs, along with window booths.

What I tried: I sampled the Pad Thai with chicken and my dining companion had the Gaeng Rueang (yellow curry) with chicken. The curry contained coconut milk, potatoes, carrots and onion. We also tried Lao B.B.Q Chicken from the list of “Chef’s Specialties” and the crispy egg rolls from the appetizer selections.

The egg rolls arrived within just five minutes of ordering. They tasted fresh and were not at all greasy. Egg, carrots, cabbage and glass noodles are encased in a light crispy wrap. A sweet dipping sauce, which had just a bite of red pepper heat, accompanied them.

The Pad Thai compared well with others that I’ve had. There wasn’t quite enough of the thin-sliced, tender chicken to last until the noodles were gone. A small amount of egg and green onion were mixed in with the noodles and chicken. The sauce, though sweet, did its job without interfering with the subtle mix of flavors that create this popular dish.

My dining companion enjoyed the curry dish, which had a sweet and spicy coconut flavor. In addition to the thin-sliced chicken pieces, the ingredients were cut into medium cubes and cooked until they were soft, but not too mushy. A portion of sticky rice was included with the dish.

The Lao B.B.Q Chicken had a light smoky flavor that overlapped the coconut milk and lemon grass seasoning. The meat was tender and moist and easily removed from the bone. It was a delicious dish that I will certainly return for.

Other menu highlights beyond what I tried: The Papaya Salad, made with shredded green papaya, garlic, tomatoes and carrots in a lime sauce and served with cabbage, intrigued me, as did the Lao Spicy Golden Wings, which are marinated in a spicy sweet and sour sauce.

Cost: Lunch specials are $6.50 to $13.50. Appetizers are $4 to $8.95. Other dishes are $6.50 to $13.50.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Where: 233 N.E. Chkalov Drive, Vancouver.

Telephone: 360-883-9606.

Health score: Sabaidee received a score of 5 on November 8. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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