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Yay for Ya Ya’s eclectic taste mix

Fusion of Northwestern fare, Mexican food tinged with Asian flavors

The Columbian
Published: December 24, 2010, 12:00am

Why: Sure, I know egg rolls. Sushi rolls. California rolls, too. Yada yada. But Ya Ya Rolls? Enter intrigue.

Before opening Cactus Ya Ya some 18 years ago, Cheryl and Jim Rettig logged two years perfecting the rolls that have become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

“We had friends over to try it and it was like, ‘What do you think?’” Jim Rettig said.

The rolls started with chicken and became the Peanut Chicken Ya Ya Rolls, which are sided with peanut sauce and soy ginger sauce. But with a family member who owned an Alaskan fish cannery, smoked salmon steak became a natural next step.

I wanted to try it.

Atmosphere: The purple front doors are a hint that things are different inside. Walk into Cactus Ya Ya, and it’s an eclectic mix of urban chic meets Old Mexico, with polished concrete flooring and thick plasterlike paint covering the walls with embossed designs. Divider walls are shaped like pueblo ruins and artwork dots the walls.

What I tried: My dining companion and I started with the House-Smoked Alaskan Salmon and Cheddar Ya Ya Rolls. I opted for the Baja Fish Taco Plate, while my dining companion ordered Skewers, one chicken and one beef.

While we waited, the waitress brought chips, salsa and a warm bean dip. In a later interview with Cheryl Rettig, I learned the complimentary bean dip is made from black-eyed peas and ginger. We found it surprising, and tasty, unlike any bean dip I’ve ever tried — especially at a Mexican restaurant.

That’s the point, Rettig said later.

“We’re so proud when people say ‘You’re not a Mexican restaurant.’ And we’re like, no. No, we’re not,” she said.

Rettig figures hers is a fusion of Southwestern Mexican food and Northwestern fare, spiced with a tinge of Asian flavors. From what I tried, I’d agree.

The Ya Ya Rolls arrived with a side of soy ginger sauce. The smoked salmon, with its cheddar cheese and dipping sauce, was an unexpected melding of flavors and was a fun way to start the meal. It was something I’d pony up for again.

The salmon soaks in a brine and then is smoked for six hours, Rettig said.

The Baja Fish Tacos came with rice, beans and two generous hard-shelled tacos. The Skewers plate came with a kabob each of beef and chicken and were served over rice and accompanied with a side of peanut sauce.

I found the fish tacos light and pleasing, especially with the cilantro sauce drizzled over the top.

The kabobs, once again, weren’t what you’d expect for Mexican food, especially with the peanut sauce. But the meat was tender and warm. Drizzled with the peanut sauce, they produced a sort of Thai meets Mediterranean sensation. I was glad to have sampled my friend’s plate.

Rettig explained that the skewers get an overnight soak in marinade made at the restaurant. She wouldn’t begin to hint at the marinade’s key ingredients. The secret’s safe.

Other observations: This is a casual dining experience with booth tables sans the cloths and lots of finger foods for dipping and munching.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Next time, I’d go for the Peanut Chicken Ya Ya Roll with the soy ginger sauce. With the peanuts and ginger, it sounds like an Asian-influenced dish that I’d enjoy.

For the drink crowd, the bar offers a $3.95 menu from 3 to 6 p.m. and from 9 p.m. to close. On the bar menu: Fish tacos, tortilla soup, skewers and burgers.

Cost: Figure on $6.50 to $9 for an appetizer. Entrees range from $8 to $12.

Hours: Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and closes at 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday and at midnight on Friday. Saturday hours are noon to midnight and Sunday is 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Contact: 360-944-9292.

Where: 15704 S.E. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Health score: Cactus Ya Ya received a zero score for its Oct. 26 restaurant inspection. Zero is a perfect score. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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