Why: Blame it on the beer. And a glut in the mold-prevention business. That’s how James Dawson, one of four Atrium Lounge owners, describes the genesis for the Vancouver restaurant, which opened shop in December.

It was January 2009, an abysmal time for nearly every facet of the economy but especially the housing market, when Dawson, along with Pete Johnson, Scott Chappell and Dustin McMullen, were selling mold pre-treatments to home buyers and got together to lament (and, maybe, cry a bit) over beer. Someone joked that they ought to open a bar. Laughter. Then after they slept on the out-of-the-blue idea they started to think that, maybe, it was the right time to open a restaurant and lounge. By July, the men were elbow-deep in construction, transforming a one-time car dealership, a cavernous space sans a kitchen, into a restaurant and lounge.

Dawson said he hopes the lounge will become an art, music and food destination in downtown Vancouver. Artwork from local artists hangs on the walls, and evenings bring a medley of musical offerings, ranging from DJ-hosted nights to open mikes — which, on Tuesday nights, let local musicians play for an on-the-house drink.

Atmosphere: Walk into The Atrium Lounge and you notice the open space and tongue-and-groove fir flooring. The room boasts airy windows and high ceilings with exposed duct work, but for dinner, it was a subdued setting with low lights at scattered tables and lights flickering above the bar just beyond.

What I tried: I opted for the Thai Basil Chicken. My dining companion tried the Spicy Thai Shrimp, although he requested a pass on what the menu described as set-the-mouth-ablaze seasoning and opted for the “no fiery bite” option. For dessert, we shared a Mango Lime Curd Hazelnut Pound Cake, which was baked by Je T’Aime Bakery in Vancouver.

The entrees arrived in crisp, white bowls, which framed the dishes’ colorful hues. The Thai Basil Chicken appeared with sprigs of fresh basil, onions and peppers, all served atop a bed of whole-wheat miki noodles. The chicken gets an overnight marinade and is finished off with a sweet soy sauce and sprinkling of whole-cane sugar, said Chef Daniel Robayo, 29, of Washougal. The dish had a light, crisp texture, with whispered flavor subtleties that melded together into a delicate chorus.

The Spicy Thai Shrimp, served with asparagus spears, maitake mushrooms and red cabbage, also arrived over a bed of miki noodles. Chef Robayo said he developed the dish, which includes a marinade in fish sauce and coconut milk, after sampling a similar one in Washington, D.C. My dining companion said the milder version (Chef Robayo said he can bring sweat and tears to the table if spicy hot is your thing) let the flavors burst through.

Following the entrée, we shared the Mango Lime Curd Hazelnut Pound Cake, which was more than ample for two. A lime curlicue bridged two cake slices, which burst with cool textures that resembled coconut but tasted citrusy.

Other observations: While we didn’t stay for the nightclub scene and, indeed, the restaurant was sparsely attended, its downtown location makes it poised to become a hipster stop as well as a lunchtime destination.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The menu changes monthly, based on in-season and sustainable ingredients, making each dinner a potentially new dining experience. In visiting with the chef, he told me about plans to offer Iron-Seared Quinalt Sea Scallops, served with white yam frites (think yam french fries) and “dangerous” (code for hot) mango mustard.

Cost: Plan on $5 to $10 for an appetizer; $13 to $18 for a dinner entrée.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Friday; 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday when dinner is served until 10 p.m.

Contact: 360-980-8370.

Where: 606 Broadway, Vancouver.

Health score:

The Atrium Lounge passed its initial inspection, but has yet to receive an official score. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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