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Northeast flavors show Northwest flair

Dishes at Harwoods sometimes fail, but its successes are scrumptious

The Columbian
Published: January 29, 2010, 12:00am

Why: When the quaint Harwoods Martini Bar and Restaurant opened in mid-December inside the Camas Hotel, it brought flavors of the Northeast to old town. Co-owner Dan Harmic says the menu reflects the six years that Executive Chef Robin Halsworth spent in Maine polishing his seafood know-how. Among the restaurant’s specialties is New England-style Clam “Chowdah,” which replicates a version Halsworth discovered when working on the East Coast. Dishes such as Harwoods Fried Calamari with Banana Peppers, the Roasted Garlic and Leek Aioli and the Crab Cakes also reflect Halsworth’s style.

Atmosphere: The historic Camas Hotel sets the mood of the restaurant’s cozy interior. A scrolled ironwork entry door opens to a dining area, which maxes out at 49 guests. A chair rail defines the walls. Above it, the walls are stained a warmed golden color; below is a rich brown. This contrast creates a tailored backdrop for cherry wood tables and chairs. The paintings that dot the walls are almost as beautiful as the antique radiator in the back of the restaurant.

What I tried: I decided on the Slider Trio, Roasted Beet Salad and a cup of Clam “Chowdah.” My dining companion had the Grilled Aged New York Strip, the Soup Du Jour, which was leek and root, and Harwoods Caesar Salad. For dessert we sampled the crème brulée.

The Slider Trio includes a Harwoods specialty, the crab cake, along with mini burgers made with ground chicken and beef. The petite patties were somewhat dwarfed by their buns, which had been toasted directly on the grill. I couldn’t decide if there was too much bread or too little meat. I was most impressed with the crab cake, which was made with a light amount of breading and generous pieces of crab. I paired my crab cake with a side of the Chipotle Avocado Sauce and the Pear and Jicama Slaw, which is how the Pan Seared Crab Cakes appetizer is prepared. The sauce had a mild flavor that hinted of avocado. It added a bit more flavor, but as good as the cake was, I preferred to eat it plain. The slaw was a delicious blend of julienned pear and jicama that was refreshed in a zesty mix of cilantro, lime juice, white pepper and sea salt. It had a fresh, healthful flavor with a little punch of sweet at the finish.

The beef slider, which included spinach, mushrooms and a few crumbles of blue cheese, was not as inspiring. The meat was char-grilled and still quite pink in the middle. The chicken slider is made with ground all-natural free-range chicken fittingly seasoned with thyme and rosemary. It had an aromatic flavor and a texture reminiscent of coarse-ground breakfast sausage.

Overall, our starters were a mix of highs and lows. The Roasted Beet Salad — made with red and white beets topped with toasted hazelnuts and shaved sunchokes — was generous in size but lacked interest. The light sprinkling of nuts didn’t create a remarkable diversity of flavors. Though Harwoods’ chef was trained in chowder country, I wasn’t as impressed with the clam chowder as I was the Leek and Root Soup. In fact, the chowder reminded me of potato soup. It had a thin broth and the potatoes were al dente. The clam pieces weren’t substantial enough to give the soup a seafood flavor. On the other hand, the Leek and Root Soup had a creamy pureed texture with a rich distinct flavor created by a combination of leeks, parsnips, rutabaga, turnip and potatoes. Hearty appetites will appreciate the New York strip, which is 12 ounces. It is made with a Pinot Noir demi-glaze and a dollop of Stilton compound butter, which complement the steak nicely. Wilted spinach and fingerling potatoes round out the meal. The potatoes were halved lengthwise and roasted. Some, in my opinion, were overcooked.

The crème brulée had a buttery smooth texture and rich creamy flavor. It was served in a shallow dish that allowed the torching to warm it all the way through. This made it exceptionally appetizing.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Along with its crab cakes and chowder, Harmic said the Coconut Sesame Tempura Prawns with Spicy Orange Mango Chutney is another specialty at Harwoods. I thought the Squash and Gorgonzola Cheese Ravioli with Brown Butter, Beet Greens and Roasted Wild Mushrooms also sounded interesting.

Other observations: The atmosphere and menu are suited to a dinner date for two or a few friends. I would leave the kids at home. The vibe was lively on our visit and the wait staff was attentive and friendly, even though the dining room was full.

For those looking to stop in just for a drink, consider the cozy martini bar, which is separate from the restaurant and seats 13 guests.

Cost: Entrées range from $15 to $24 for the New York Strip. The Pan Seared Crab Cakes appetizer is $14.

Hours: 3 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday. 3 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Sunday and Monday open for private functions only.

Telephone: 360-210-4037.

Where: 401 N.E. Fourth Ave., Camas.

Health score: Harwoods has received its pre-opening inspection, but has not yet been evaluated for a score. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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