Pretty in pink: Sweet, savory watermelon

PARIS — Growing up in Denton, Texas, I remember tasting watermelon that was so sweet that we’d sprinkle salt on the oversize, half-moon slices to balance the flavors.

Eating the cartoony wedges was always an adventure — the watermelon itself was no match for the flimsy white paper plates — and the seeds … what were we supposed to do if not spit them at each other?

Let’s face it, watermelon’s just fun. Its striped outside and bright pink, black polka-dotted middle give it a visual appeal like no other fruit, and the taste — such sweet goodness! A slice of icy watermelon on a 100-degree day is what summer’s all about, if you ask me.

Besides all of that, as you might expect, watermelon is mostly water (92 percent), and it’s good for you, too, full of vitamins A, C and B6, and potassium. The big green guy originated in Africa and was cultivated by the Egyptians, and it wasn’t until the 1600s, sources say, that watermelon was introduced to the rest of the world. Maybe they needed to build bigger ships? Now, there are more than 1,200 varieties.

In Paris, I didn’t even notice the dark green fruit slightly larger than a bowling ball called pasteque the first summer or two I was here. Without the familiar dark and light green stripes, I just walked past this Frenchified watermelon, thinking perhaps it was some kind of squash (which, it turns out, is a cousin, like the pumpkin and cantaloupe).

Then, last summer at a picnic with a few expat friends along the Seine on an unusually hot night in August, someone brought out the watermelon. Without even a tiny bit of a breeze, there seemed to be nothing we could do to cool off — until, without paper plates, even, we ate chunks of drippy, messy, good old pasteque as the sun finally set sometime past 10.

The Parisians nearby looked at us, as they often do, with surprise. Non, we’re not going to use a knife and fork to eat our watermelon — or our hamburgers.

That said, here are two savory recipes for watermelon that’ll please folks on both sides of the Atlantic. You can use silverware, if you’re so inclined, or just eat with your fingers if you want.

Watermelon-Feta Salad

Makes 4 servings.

This is my version of what’s becoming a classic watermelon salad. The cool, crunchy melon and mint offset the creamy, salty feta and kalamata olives, and the lime brightens up the whole crazy-sounding combination.

2 pounds watermelon, cut in 1-inch cubes

Handful of mint, roughly chopped

10 kalamata olives, pitted and halved

Small red onion (about 2 tablespoons), diced

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

7 ounces feta

Additional mint, for serving

Pepper

Put everything except the feta in a large bowl and toss gently so the watermelon pieces stay whole. Refrigerate for an hour. Before serving, add the feta, a bit more mint and cracked pepper.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 194 calories, 13 grams fat, 13 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams protein, 44 milligrams cholesterol, 941 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber, 58 percent of calories from fat.

Watermelon Pico de Gallo

Makes about 6 servings.

I love this on top of grilled fish, shrimp or scallops, and served on tostadas. Or mix the seafood into the pico, spoon onto lettuce and serve as a first course.

2 medium tomatoes, diced

16 ounces watermelon, diced (try to make the watermelon pieces slightly larger than the tomato)

1 tablespoon red onion, diced

1 jalapeno, chopped

1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

Put everything in a medium bowl, gently toss, and refrigerate for an hour. Adjust seasoning.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 25 calories, trace fat, 5 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, no cholesterol, 162 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber, 11 percent of calories from fat.