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Dining Out: La Casa Tapatia spices up La Center

The Columbian
Published: June 18, 2010, 12:00am

Why: La Center’s dining options have recently expanded to include Mexican cuisine. Owned and operated by the Guitron family, La Casa Tapatia opened May 1 and is nestled between a general store and a dog groomer’s shop on La Center’s main drag. The menu is fairly consistent with its 15 other locations throughout Washington, Oregon and Idaho, and offers many combinations of Mexican food as well as a few American dishes. Fajitas, made with a traditional family recipe, are the restaurant’s specialty.

Atmosphere: The space which formerly housed a pizza restaurant and video store has been completely transformed. A small vestibule off Fourth Street welcomes diners into either the family-style restaurant or the bar. Once inside, a wall with arched openings allows a view into both without the feeling of intrusion by either. The restaurant’s seating is mostly high-backed booths, and a few tables are positioned by large street-side windows. Bright colors on the walls and ceiling create a festive feeling.

What I tried: My dining companions and I chose the chicken fajitas with flour tortillas, the Three Taquitos Rancheros, and a combination dinner that included a chicken enchilada, a taco and a chimichanga. Each dinner came with refried beans and Spanish rice. We sampled the deep-fried ice cream and the flan for dessert.

The highlight of our meal was the fajita entree. The chicken, bell peppers, and deliciously caramelized onions arrived on a sizzling iron pan and wafted a sweet aroma. A paprika and citrus flavor took the meat mixture far beyond classic fajita seasoning. The chicken was tender. Pico de gallo, guacamole, and sour cream arrived on the side.

The chicken taquitos were generously filled with shredded chicken. They were deep fried, as expected, but they were not unappetizingly dripping with oil.

In the combination dinner, the hard-shell taco stood out from the chimichanga and the enchilada. It was full but the shell didn’t split apart as tacos typically do. Although each item contained chicken, the individual components offset the flavor and created enough variety to keep things interesting. The chimichanga contains chicken, cheese, cumin, oregano, pepper, garlic, and tomatoes, making it a little more complex than the taco or the enchilada.

The flan rested in a caramel sauce. The cool, smooth custard was topped with whipped cream, chocolate sauce, vanilla dust, and a cherry. The different toppings gave added dimension to this traditional dessert, which usually isn’t quite so dressed up. The deep-fried ice cream was large enough to share.

Other Observations: La Casa Tapatia was considerably busy on the evening of my visit. This, along with the energetic wait staff, created a festive mood, but we didn’t feel rushed. Our selections arrived quickly on hot plates.

Cost: Diners can get by for just under $10 with the simpler fare. Specialty items and seafood entrees are in the $10-$20 range.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Telephone: 360-263-2323.

Where: 214 E. Fourth St., La Center.

Health Score: La Casa Tapatia received a score of 5 on May 18. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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