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Dining Out: Bistro’s sandwiches boast big flavor

Owner hoping to lure courthouse crowd with burgers, other offerings

The Columbian
Published: May 7, 2010, 12:00am

Why: After running Bubb’s Big Island BBQ catering for the past three years, Doug Bubb decided it was time to branch out. So, he opened Supernova Bistro in downtown Vancouver with a menu made for burger and sandwich lovers. Supernova offers 15 different burgers, including the Charger, which is made with steak-seasoned Angus beef. The restaurant’s signature Supernova sandwich boasts the Bubb family’s secret pulled pork recipe.

Condiments such as the Drunken Salsa and chipotle aioli, which Bubb makes, lend a signature character to many of the menu items.

Bubb hopes Supernova will become the place jurors choose to go for lunch while doing their civic duty, given the bistro is across the street from the courthouse. To sweeten the deal, he’s offering jurors a 10 percent discount.

Atmosphere: The dining room at Supernova Bistro is casual and on the small side, with room for 24. Fresh paint and an updated floor do their best to renew the dining room space, which has a well-established air about it. The chairs, which have second-hand character, are similar to what you would find in a conference center and the tables are covered in flannel-backed vinyl. Water is served in disposable plastic cups and the food is served in paper-lined baskets. Members of the Bubb family pitch in and cover duties such as cooking and serving diners.

What I tried: I decided on the Charger Burger with a side of Ginger Sesame Coleslaw. My dining companion had the special of the day, which was the California Chicken Sandwich made with bacon, avocado, Drunken Salsa, Swiss cheese and chipotle aioli. The sandwich came with standard add-ons: lettuce, tomato and red onion. He chose french fries to accompany his sandwich.

When our food arrived we both took a minute to consider how we’d tackle these sandwiches, both of which were piled high with ingredients to create sizable stacks. The ample serving of fries that came with my dining companion’s sandwich filled the serving basket. That was in contrast to the 4-ounce serving of Sesame Ginger Coleslaw that came with my burger.

Eating the burger was an experience that constantly changed as I worked my way through to the last bites of it. The beef patty was thick and tasted of the black pepper used to season it. But all the ingredients had their time to shine. I especially enjoyed the variation between the chipotle aioli, which had a kick of heat, to the chili ketchup, which reminded me of the sauce I loved on the hamburgers at Bob’s Big Boy restaurant when I was a kid.

The onion straws imparted an onion ring flavor and the bacon and cheddar cheese complimented without being too memorable. My burger was messy and a fair amount of moisture dripped from the tomato and lettuce, but this was nothing compared with my dining companion’s sandwich, which was so juicy that the bottom bun was soaked in short order. For all the hassle that it was for him to eat, he thoroughly enjoyed it and said, “It’s crazy messy, but it’s the best chicken sandwich I’ve ever had.”

The french fries at Supernova are the slender type that fry up to an appetizing crispiness on the outside and they are seasoned with a tasty seasoned salt. Sesame is the stand out flavor in the Sesame Ginger Coleslaw. I found it was better to save the slaw until last because the flavor was so different than those I experienced in the burger.

Overall, Supernova’s food exceeded our expectations and we both determined a return visit was in order.

Other menu highlights: Based on my experience with the Charger Burger, I’m intrigued by the East Coast Philly Cheesesteak. This sandwich’s list of ingredients appear ordinary, but then again, there doesn’t seem to be anything ordinary at Supernova. The Rojo Chicken Sandwich sounds adventurous. On this sandwich, the chicken is smothered in Aztec Chicken Spice and adorned with Drunken Salsa and chipotle aioli, among other things.

Other observations: The burgers and sandwiches are tall and messy, but extremely flavorful. Everyone I encountered at Supernova was friendly and the person who brought our lunch to the table checked back often to make sure our dining needs were met.

Cost: None of the menu items exceed $9.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Telephone: 360-326-4609.

Where: 609 W. 11th St., Vancouver.

Health score: Supernova Bistro has passed its pre-opening inspection, but has not yet been inspected to receive a score. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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