The Columbian | Serving Clark County, Washington

Why: David Garcia opened Hearth in August, after several years of planning.

Inspired by popular Portland restaurants, Garcia describes Hearth as an eclectic bistro that serves small plates, pizza and entrees.

Atmosphere: The focal point of the restaurant is the centrally located wood oven, which cooks the food, dries the air and adds warmth, creating a cozy environment. The floors are stained concrete and Pendleton tapestries line the wall.

Though pizza and macaroni and cheese are on the kids menu, the restaurant’s seating and vibe is better suited for a grown-up crowd.

What I tried: I started with the Roasted Beet and Fennel Salad, followed by the Baby Back Pork Ribs, which have a ginger-blackberry glaze. The ribs were served with potatoes, braised cabbage and roasted carrots. My dining companion tried the cheese pizza. For dessert, we sampled the Rosemary Cheesecake.

Sliced white and red beets were piled atop a small bed of mixed greens and layered with fennel. The salad is topped with small grated carrots and tossed in olive oil and a hint of lemon. The salad tasted refreshing and healthful, and left just a hint of sweetness on every bite. The portion was well worth its $7 price tag.

My rib entree and my dining companion’s pizza arrived back to back and piping hot.

The ribs were some of the meatiest I’ve had. They were thickly coated with the ginger-blackberry glaze, which vigilantly stuck to every bite.

The meat was easily removed from the bone. The glaze was a delicious complement, with a rich berry flavor slightly tamed by the ginger.

The downside to the glaze was that the blackberry seeds became very hard. At first I mistook them for small bits of bone. When Garcia came to visit our table I mentioned this, and he said that he would strain the seeds out in the future.

The accompanying vegetables were in separate portions alongside the ribs. I found the potatoes dry. The carrots were tender and sweet with a roasted edge that gave them added appeal.

My favorite, though, was the cabbage. Garcia uses the same recipe as Paley’s Place in Portland. The cabbage is shredded and small bits of bacon mellow its tang.

The pizza had an airy crust and the sauce and cheese were lightly applied to it. Given the fact that it had such a light presence, I thought it would be best to pair with a salad for a meal.

The Rosemary Cheesecake wasn’t as dense and creamy as most cheesecakes are. Its texture was almost spongy, giving it a cakelike presence. There was just enough rosemary to complement the fresh berry and orange glaze, harmoniously bringing these flavors from nature together.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The mustard-ginger marinated Hanger Steak sounded intriguing, as did the Lamb Curry Pizza made with poblano chile sauce, mozzarella, pecorino Romano, chili beef, caramelized onions, corn and green onions. Garcia says this pizza has become a popular choice among diners.

Cost: Starters, salads and soups range from $6 to $9. Specialties and entrees are $9 to $20, with many in the $14 to $15 range. Kids pizzas are $7 for a cheese and $8 for a pepperoni.

Other observations: The waitress was friendly, knowledgeable and attentive. Overall, Hearth exceeded my expectations and I’m looking forward to going back to try the Lamb Curry Pizza. I believe Garcia has hit his intended mark with Hearth.

Hours: 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Hearth Hour (Happy Hour) is 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday.

Telephone: 360-210-7028.

Where: 1700 Main St., No. 110, Washougal.

Health score: Hearth has received a pre-opening inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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