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Tailgate fare on tap at Buffalo Wild Wings

The Columbian
Published: September 24, 2010, 12:00am

Why: Buffalo Wild Wings is one of the 10 fastest-growing restaurant chains in America. It arrived in Vancouver in June.

Manager Brian Adams says most people come for the wings, beer and sports. The sports bar knows its crowd and caters to it, offering tailgate-friendly food and 14 signature sauces that bring heady flavors to Buffalo wings and a number of other menu items.

Atmosphere: The vibe is lively and all about the game. Dozens of televisions line the entire perimeter of the restaurant and bar area. In the bar, these are topped with brew-themed neon signs. Booth seating is located along the wall and tables and chairs fill in the middle. You may find, with all the game viewing that you will likely be doing, that you feel as though you’re sitting in a dugout with the team.

What I tried: At the recommendation of the hostess, I started with the Chili Con Queso Dip. I ordered the wings sampler, which consists of 24 wings tossed in four sauces. I also tried an eight-piece order of the boneless wings with two different sauces. In addition to the wings, I ordered a side salad and I took home a piece of deep-dish apple pie.

The Chili Con Queso Dip arrived within the first five minutes of my being seated. White corn tortilla chips surrounded a 6-ounce bowl of chili, which had a fair amount of smooth cheese sauce throughout it. I found there was enough to ensure cheese with every dip, to the very end of the bowl. The chili was mild and semi-chunky, yet was thin enough for adequate dipping.

The wing sampler came in a basket and my four sauces were labeled so I could tell them apart.

My sauces of choice for the traditional style wings were the Sweet BBQ and the Parmesan Garlic from the mild end of Buffalo Wild Wings’ sauce heat spectrum, and the Medium (classic wing sauce) and Honey BBQ, which had medium heat. On the boneless wings I had the Asian Zing (a medium-heat sauce) and the Mango Habanero from the “Screamin” end of the heat index.

My overall favorite sauce was the Asian Zing. I found it to be a winning combination of sweet and hot with a chili and soy character that possessed just a touch of ginger. My least favorite was the Parmesan Garlic, because its flavor would have better fit with vegetables than wings and the consistency was a little grainy.

The Mango Habanero, which is the third from the hottest sauce, reminded me of classic red Tabasco sauce and was extremely hot, possessing an after burn that took a while to subside.

The difference between the traditional wings and boneless wings, other than the bones, is a significant amount of crust on the boneless, which the traditional doesn’t have. In addition, the boneless wings are made from all white meat. I found both were equally appetizing. I was inclined to use a fork to eat the boneless.

The side salad was close to room temperature and dry, but it was fresh and contained a fair amount of vegetable variety other than the lettuce.

I followed the waitress’ directions for microwave heating the apple pie when I arrived home. It had a soft texture and the apples were more sweet than tart. The streusel topping reminded me of a topping one might find on a quality coffee cake. Overall, I was impressed with the apple pie. In the restaurant, it’s served with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream.

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Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Though chicken makes up the bulk of the menu, Buffalo Wild Wings also offers a crispy fish sandwich, popcorn shrimp and a few burgers and ribs. Kids can choose from wings, tenders, mini corn dogs, macaroni and cheese or a cheeseburger. Appetizers include fried pickles, nachos and roasted garlic mushrooms.

Other observations: Kids that get amped up during restaurant dining will have plenty to keep their senses busy and parents can relax thanks to the game-time noise level. My visit was during a game so dining was full and there was a wait to get seated, though it wasn’t excessive. I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly my order arrived and the efficiency of the wait staff was superb.

Cost: Sauce-Spun Wings range from $5.29 for 6 to $35.99 for 50. Except for the ribs and combos, all other menu items are under $10. Kids meals are under $5.

Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday. 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. on Saturday. 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. on Sunday.

Telephone: 360-597-3486.

Where: 7704 NE 5th Ave., Vancouver.

Health score: Buffalo Wild Wings received a score of zero on July 15. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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