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Dining Out: Chuck’s offers more than shopping

The Columbian
Published: January 28, 2011, 12:00am

Why: A grocery store doesn’t typically qualify for the list of best dining options, but Chuck’s Produce & Street Market has provided a courtyard-like area for diners.

Chuck’s Produce & Street Market exudes a farm-fresh appeal that makes a visit more of an adventure than a chore. As a diner, I found the result to be very pleasant and comfortable. Since all the food options are either made-to-order or made in-house with high-quality ingredients, the flavors are fresh and appetizing.

Atmosphere: The options are presented individually at stations much like a small-scale version of a mall food court. There’s room for four people at each sturdy table; seating for 50 in all. Condiments, plastic utensils and napkins are located at a help-yourself counter.

The dining area is out of the way of grocery shoppers and flanked by a delightful little gift store and a wine shop.

What I tried: I had the lunch special of the day, a Philly Cheesesteak sandwich and steak fries. I also purchased some of the Zesty Antipasta Salad to take home.

The meat on the sandwich was thin sliced, very lean and generously stacked on the hoagie bun, which offered just a bit of browned butter flavor from the grill.

A medley of grilled onions and red, yellow and green bell peppers brought just the right amount of sweet vegetable flavor to the sandwich. Melted provolone lent a subtle flavor. Overall, the sandwich was a tad dry, but the flavor was delicious, and the ingredients were fresh and healthful.

The steak fries were deep fried, with an appetizing crisp exterior, and sprinkled with seasoned salt.

Along with pasta, the antipasta salad contained roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, pepperoncini, onion and parmesan cheese. The ingredients are tossed in an oil and vinegar mixture. It possessed a marinated quality that was somewhat tangy, though this was partially mellowed by the parmesan.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Other options include fresh-baked pizza from a brick oven; hot entrees; made-to-order and ready-made sandwiches; pasta, noodle and vegetable salads, with additional meat items interspersed; 10 varieties of hot soups; espresso and artisan coffee drinks; gelato, which comes in 18 flavors, and soft serve ice cream; and pastry and bakery items.

Other observations: The tables and floor were spotless on my visit, and the condiment counter was all in order. Those who assisted me were friendly and courteous.

Shellfish and pork are not available in the grocery or delicatessen at Chuck’s Produce & Street Market.

Cost: The special of the day on my visit was $7. The Zesty Antipasta Salad was $6.19 per pound.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday. 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. Closed Saturdays.

Telephone: 360-597-2700.

Where: 13215 S.E. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Health score: Chuck’s Produce & Street Market received a perfect score, zero, on Dec. 6. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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