Clothing makers, retailers urge sustainability index

Risky move pays off for high-end company with California roots

A coalition that includes major clothing manufacturers and retailers, as well as environmental and labor groups is pushing to establish an industrywide index that would measure the environmental impact of apparel and footwear production.

The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, launched this month, also aims find opportunities to improve social and environmental practices throughout the industry’s complex supply chain and to focus on promising technological innovations within the industry. It is using an environmental design tool developed by Nike and the Outdoor Industry Association’s “eco index” as models.

The invitation-only coalition now has 33 members, and hopes to expand to 40 members by mid-year and to later open itself to broader membership. Agave’s Jeff Shafer says he’s interested in learning more and eventually engaging with the coalition.

Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental and social issues in the apparel manufacturing industry, he says, and there’s no way to prove the accuracy of existing environmental claims. Because Agave’s own products are assembled in California, they meet government-mandated environmental standards that are not applied in much of the world, he said.

Having Wal-Mart in the coalition could be the key to success, Shafer said. “The challenge is that this will drive up prices,” he says. “Are people willing to pay more?”