Why: Abhiruchi recently opened where Sabaidee, now defunct, used to be. The restaurant brings South and North Indian cuisine to the neighborhood of Mill Plain and Chkalov Drive. A full menu includes all things traditional, from Tandoori entrees baked in a clay oven, to desserts of Indian origin, presenting many opportunities to explore flavors from abroad.
Atmosphere: The appetizing aroma of curry greets diners at the door. The dining room is painted in a calming green, trimmed in dark chocolate brown. Embellished tapestries adorn the walls and melodious Indian music fills the air, setting the stage for the cuisine. Booth seating is available along the walls, and tables and chairs fill in the floor space, except where the double-sided buffet tables accommodate help-yourself service at lunch.
What I tried: My dining companion and I decided on the Abhiruchi Special, which combines Masala Dosa, an oversized crepe stuffed with vegetable curry; Idli; Vada; and Masala Vada. We also had Sambar, a lentil soup with spices, and the Chicken Vindaloo. From the vegetarian entrees, we tried the Navaratan Koorma. For dessert, we had Gulab Jamun and Kheer.
We both agreed that two dishes were especially outstanding. These were the last to arrive, but well worth the wait. The Chicken Vindaloo contained chunks of tender, slow-cooked chicken and cubes of potatoes in a robust curry sauce that was spicy enough to be noted but not so hot that it interfered with the delicious flavor. Each bite had the intensity of a concentrate, the way a sauce becomes more flavorful when reduced. The Navaratan Koorma was likewise impressive. This dish was almost dessert-like, with a rich tomato-cream sauce that was sweet and complementary to the array of mixed soft vegetables. The yogurt nuts were a surprising addition to this dish and kept it from becoming monotonous, a fate that can often accompany soft slow-cooked food. These two dishes will be hard to deviate from on my next visit.
