Dining Out: At Julie’s, all the comforts of home

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Why: If you’ve never been cruising down Northeast 72nd Avenue in the vicinity of Dollars Corner at mealtime, then I suggest you make a point of it. Julie’s Cottage Kitchen is where you will want to satisfy your appetite. The modest little kitchen serves up some of the most agreeable comfort food in Clark County.

Atmosphere: Black fixed shutters dress up the windows inside and impart a cottage feel, while a few Western-themed items create focal points for the decor. Oversized mirrors reflect natural light and provide the illusion of depth to the cozy dining room. Seating consists of tables and chairs, with a few seats at a small bar near the register, enough for about 42 in all. In a small niche some tastefully chosen gift items for home decor and personal care are for sale.

What I tried: I had my sights set on the fish and chips since learning that the folks at Julie’s batter the cod themselves. But when the waitress mentioned the chicken and homemade noodles “like Mom used to make,” I wanted those as well. My dining companion ended up with the chicken and noodles and let me sample, and I stuck with the fish -- though I opted for a green salad in lieu of the chips.

The salad was very appetizing and pleasantly different from the average side salad. Fresh, dark green leafy lettuce was used as a base. Beets, sunflower seeds, shredded carrots and cranberries topped the salad.

The light, crispy batter on the fish was completely cooked without any gooey areas between the batter and the fish fillet, or excess oil pooling on the plate. A small tub of sweet tartar sauce for dipping accompanied the fish.

Although I thoroughly enjoyed my meal, once I sampled my dining companion’s chicken and noodles, I ordered some to take home with me. True to the waitress’s description, they tasted just like mom’s homemade noodles. Tender pieces of flavorful boiled chicken were mixed into the thick hearty noodles. The essence of this dish translated comfort at its finest. Green beans and Texas-style garlic toast accompanied the chicken and noodles. The green beans were cooked to a soft squeaky texture, not entirely impressive, but the garlic toast was magical! Every bite contained a powerful measure of garlic flavor that made this common side exceptional.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Steak and pork chops are available at breakfast along with standard breakfast fare. Sandwiches, burgers, chicken strips and fish are among the lunch options.

Other observations: Julie’s is a comfortable, unrushed place where you will likely want to linger a while before continuing with daily pursuits.

The waitress during our lunch visit was friendly and courteous, and her attentiveness made us feel as though we were special guests.

The chicken and noodles that I brought home was every bit as delicious as I had anticipated and I’m looking forward to my next visit to Julie’s.

Cost: Breakfast and lunch items are less than $10. Dinners start at $10 for spaghetti or a vegetable stir fry and top out at $13.99 for a flat iron steak or halibut.

Hours: 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday through Tuesday. 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.

Where: 21708 N.E. 72nd Ave., Battle Ground.

Telephone: 360-687-7945.

Health score: Julie’s received a score of 0 on Nov. 29. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.