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Enter hog heaven at Fatty Patty’s

The Columbian
Published: February 23, 2012, 4:00pm

Why: If large portions excite you and calories don’t concern you, Fatty Patty’s is your kind of place. With selections such as S.L.O.P. (Super-Large Oversized Portion); Hog Waller, which is 4 scrambled eggs, ham, bacon, mushrooms, onions and peppers with cheddar cheese melted on top; and the Barnyard, a 16-egg omelette, you will be in hog heaven with the tasty selections that fill the menu.

The restaurant’s history includes three Fatty Patty’s, but the original Highway 99 location is the sole survivor.

Atmosphere: A pig motif decorates the diner-style restaurant, with scores of pig figurines lined on shelves and other pig-themed items scattered about. Booths upholstered in green complement the country charm of the space.

What I tried: I settled on a Piglet-sized order of the S.L.O.P. and my dining companion tried the Patty’s Famous Chicken Fried Steak, which is made from scratch, as are most menu items. She also had a biscuit and a Hot Chocolate.

The S.L.O.P. consists of hash browns, ham, tomatoes, green pepper and onions grilled together. All this is topped with shredded cheddar cheese and sausage gravy. It also comes with toast or a biscuit on the side. I had toast. Since most of the ingredients either contain fat or are fried in some form of fat, this dish is greasy. The flavor is that of a typical breakfast skillet dish, although the sausage gravy that tops the S.L.O.P. does bring some additional character. Fatty Patty’s hash browns are ribbon cut so they are more substantial than you will find at most restaurants. The Piglet portion that I ordered was still a very large portion.

My dining companion was especially fond of the hot chocolate. It was topped with a big dollop of whipped cream and confectionery sprinkles.

The Chicken Fried Steak was crispy on the outside and the meat was tender and moist — sure to win fans. It comes with eggs, hash browns and toast. My companion requested a biscuit in lieu of the eggs and toast. Though the waitress brought one biscuit, it was equal in size to four extra-tall biscuits. It was baked just right in spite of its size — remaining moist to the center without a trace of gooeyness.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Pigs in a Blanket are on the breakfast menu, as is Oatmeal and Cinnamon Rolls. Belgian Waffles may be ordered with strawberries and whipped cream.

Lunch includes burgers, sandwiches, salads, homemade soups and milkshakes.

Other observations: The wait staff was very friendly and attentive.

The glaze was worn off of the rim of both mugs placed at the table we chose. One had an unsightly lipstick stain. When I brought it to the attention of the waitress, she apologized and promptly replaced both of the mugs.

Cost: Omelettes are $8.95 to $12.95, except the Barnyard, which costs $3. Pancakes, waffles and French toast with accompaniments range from $5.95 to $8.95. Favorites and House Specials, such as Biscuits & Gravy and Ground Round Steak & Eggs start at $7.95 and top out at $26.95. Sides cost $1.10 to $5.95. Lunch selections are $5.95 to $10.95.

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Sunday.

Where: 10501 N.E. Highway 99, Vancouver.

Telephone: 360-574-4940.

Health score: Fatty Patty’s received a score of 10 on Jan. 30. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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