Dining Out: Lisa’s Country Kitchen homey, tasty

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Why: Lisa’s Country Kitchen opened five years ago and has since become a neighborhood favorite known for serving breakfast all day, as well as American lunch and dinner classics at fair prices. The restaurant provides a little slice of country along the well-established Mill Plain Boulevard.

Atmosphere: Located in a strip mall, the space is divided into three distinct sections -- all of which are equally charming. Seating consists of bar stools around a counter near the bustle of the kitchen, and there are comfortable booths, upholstered in pale pink, in addition to tables and chairs. Twinkling lights frame the windows, and an abundance of country artifacts decorate the walls and niches of the restaurant. Many of the tables have their own petite tabletop lamp. Baskets hold condiments, and paper towels take the place of extra napkins. The result is a relaxing, homey atmosphere.

What I tried: I stopped in for breakfast and had the Cinnamon French Toast 2x2x2, with crispy bacon and scrambled eggs.

My meal was quick to the table and hot off the grill. I was pleased with the size of the servings -- they were large enough for a hearty appetite, yet not too ambitious. I noted the same was true of other diners’ meals.

The French toast reminded me of that which I prepare at home. The slices of bread used were standard thickness for sandwiches, which allows the egg mixture to reach the center and keeps them from becoming too dry on the grill. The addition of cinnamon, in my opinion (though I do add a pinch of nutmeg as well), is what transforms a nominal egg-dipped slice of bread into French toast and sets the stage for the syrup.

The scrambled eggs were thoroughly cooked through without any runny spots and void of salt and pepper -- to be added at the diner’s discretion. The bacon was fairly thick and crispy, as I had requested, and it had been patted dry of excess grease.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Breakfast offers the most variety and includes traditional breakfasts and simple fare such as oatmeal and a cottage cheese and fruit plate. Lunch items consist of burgers — such as the Roadhog which is a double-patty bacon cheeseburger — sandwiches, soup and salad. meatloaf, liver and onions and a BBQ Pork Rib Platter are on the dinner menu. Cake, pie and ice cream are available if you have room for dessert.

Other observations: The restaurant is clean and tidy, and the service is attentive, courteous and friendly.

Cost: Breakfast selections range from $4.95 to $11.95. Lunch starts at $5.95 and tops out at $10.95. Dinner is $10.95 to $14.95. The Lighter Side menu consists of taco salad, quesadillas, and a nachos platter for $9.95 each. Appetizers are $5.95. Dessert is $2.95 to $4.95.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Sunday.

Telephone: 360-693-7472.

Where: 6321 E. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver.

Health Score: Lisa’s Country Kitchen received a score of 15 on Feb. 13. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.