Dining Out: Battle Ground brewpub is also good for breakfast
Friday, September 28, 2012
Why: Laurelwood Public House & Brewery is an option for weekend breakfasts. Menu items range from house-made Space Stout buttermilk biscuits to scrambles that include a house-made chorizo, as well as griddle selections served with brown sugar-cinnamon butter, and hazelnut-finished ham.
If you're coming from a different Clark County neighborhood, the quaint setting of Battle Ground Village is an added bonus to the experience. Outside the village, Main Street offers some one-of-a-kind shops.
Atmosphere: The spacious dining environment is inviting and comfortable. Warm wood tones, rust-colored walls, and an assortment of Old World-style lighting fixtures bring beauty and interest to the space. Intimate booths line the perimeter and tables and chairs fill in the open space. A loft area can be reserved for private use and patio dining is available, weather permitting. A few large-screen TVs provide entertainment. There is a small play area for children.
What I tried: I settled on the Traditional Space Stout biscuits and gravy with scrambled eggs, and my dining companion had the French toast with bacon. We also had coffee.
Laurelwood serves Portland Roasting coffee. The dark Colombian that was brewing on the morning of my visit had a rich, complex flavor, just short of what espresso offers — positively some of the best coffee I've had.
Our breakfasts were hot off the grill and quick to the table.
My dining companion thoroughly enjoyed his French toast, which was soft but not soggy and hinted of nutmeg. The brown sugar-cinnamon butter was a distinctive and agreeable addition to the classic French toast. The bacon was cooked to a soft finish instead of crispy.
My biscuits and gravy breakfast was equally satisfying. The biscuits were very dense and somewhat crumbly. The texture reminded me of cornbread. They had a light barley color and presented a slight presence of Laurelwood Space Stout. The gravy was smooth and creamy, mild in flavor and just a few bits of sausage were incorporated. The scrambled eggs were fully cooked without any slimy spots and left to my discretion to season.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The Battle Ground Scramble sounded perfect to satisfy a large appetite. Its three eggs are scrambled with bacon, sausage, hazelnut-finished ham, yellow onions, red and green bell peppers and cheddar, then piled atop two Space Stout buttermilk biscuits and smothered in sausage gravy.
Conversely, the caramelized oatmeal — creamy steel cut oats topped with caramelized cinnamon — from the a la carte selections sounded perfect to suit a smaller appetite.
Other observations: The waitstaff is attentive and friendly, the prices are comparable to other restaurant breakfasts and the quality is better than most.
Cost: A la carte items are $1.50 to $3. Breakfast scrambles are $7.95 to $12.95. Griddle options are $8.95 and $10.95. Specialty dishes including steak and eggs, chicken fried steak and eggs, and biscuits and gravy range from $8.95 to $16.95. Kids' breakfast selections are $4.50 and include a drink.
Hours: Breakfast is served 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday only. The public house is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday. 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday. 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.
Where: 1401 S.E. Rasmussen Blvd., Battle Ground.
Health score: Laurelwood received a perfect score of 0 on Aug. 24. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.