Butterball mystery: Turkeys wouldn’t fatten up

NEW YORK — Butterball apparently has big fat mystery on its hands: The company says it doesn’t know why some of its turkeys wouldn’t plump up in time for Thanksgiving this year.

CEO Rod Brenneman said that it’s the first time it has happened and that the company is investigating what went wrong. Butterball had announced that it will have a limited supply of large, fresh turkeys that are 16 pounds or heavier for the holidays.

“It’s a really good question. We don’t have an answer yet,” Brenneman said when asked about the cause. But he noted that turkeys are “biological creatures” subject to a variety of factors.

“For whatever reason, they just didn’t gain quite as well this year,” he said.

Like many other turkey producers, Butterball feeds its birds antibiotics to prevent and treat illnesses, which can occur from living in cramped quarters. The use of antibiotics, which also promote growth in livestock, has been the subject of concern that it could lead to antibiotic-resistant germs.

Butterball, a privately held company based in Garner, N.C., declined to say whether it made any changes to its feed formula this year. But the problem seems to have come up rather recently.

For much of the year, Butterball produces turkeys that are frozen and stored until they’re ready to be sold for the holidays. But then in October and November, it shifts into production for fresh turkeys. And that’s when the company ran into problems with the turkeys not gaining enough weight, Brenneman said.

It hasn’t been an issue for some other poultry producers.

“The weather was great, so the turkeys were a little bigger,” said Theo Weening, the global meat buyer for Whole Foods Market, based in Austin, Texas. The grocer works with smaller suppliers to sell turkeys that haven’t been treated with antibiotics.

Over at meat producer Cargill, spokesman Michael Martin said in an email that the company has never had a problem where its birds didn’t put on enough weight to produce an adequate supply of large turkeys.