Whip winter squash into an easy savory galette

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This galette takes a little longer than our usual fast dinner, but I'll justify that with this argument: 30 minutes or so of that time is merely waiting for the thing to bake. That's time to check the kids' homework or make a salad or relax with a glass of wine.

The recipe couldn't be simpler. A galette, a rustic tart that can go sweet or savory, is easy to assemble and encourages improvisation. This version is adapted slightly from a recipe by vegetarian cooking guru Deborah Madison — one that's been a house staple for so long that I make it from memory and had to dig it out to remember its source. (Madison wrote about it in Food & Wine nearly 20 years ago.)

I call for a store-bought crust here to save time, but your homemade crust would taste better. A pizza dough (about 1 pound) could also be used, again from the store or your own hands. Some crispy bacon or crisped cubes of prosciutto would be good mixed into the squash, and you could sauté the onions in the fat.

Squash Galette

Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 30 to 35 minutes Makes: 4 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced in thick half-moons

½ teaspoon kosher salt

About 1 package (10 or 12 ounces) cooked frozen butternut squash puree

1 refrigerated pie crust for a 9-inch pie (or equivalent homemade crust)

¼ cup crumbled blue cheese

5 fresh sage leaves, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried rubbed sage

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oven to 375 F degrees. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the onion and season with a little salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 10 minutes. Meanwhile, thaw the squash in the microwave according to package directions. Mix the squash and cooked onions together right in the skillet. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt or more to taste.

Place the crust on a parchment-lined baking sheet; spread with the squash mixture, leaving a border about 1½ inches wide. Sprinkle with the blue cheese and sage. Season with plenty of pepper. Fold the border of the crust over the edge of the filling. It will cover about 1 inch of the filling, leaving the middle exposed.

Bake until the crust is golden brown, 30-35 minutes. Serve warm, sliced into wedges like a pie and accompanied by a green salad.

per serving: 322 calories, 20 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 32 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 540 mg sodium, 4 g fiber