The next time you bring a hostess gift to dinner, skip the flowers and present a puffy white cloud of garlic goodness instead. Lebanese cooks know it as toum and call it a sauce or paste. But it’s akin to alchemy.
Joseph Chemali learned to make it from his uncle, a chef in Beirut, where it’s slathered on the lavash flatbread that wraps hot, juicy rotisserie chicken. More than a half-century later, the former embassy chef and owner of Shemali’s Cafe and Market in D.C. spins up to 10 pounds of toum weekly to complement his kebabs and give his customers a kitchen shortcut.
Toum is a gentle, handy alternative to the bite of raw garlic and the mishap of over-sautéed slices. It can outlast those heads of garlic sprouting on your shelf. Follow Chemali’s method for blending its five ingredients, and you, too, can create an aromatic nimbus.
Garlic Paste (Toum)
Makes 4 cups.
7 heads garlic
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups soybean or canola oil, plus more if needed
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
water
Purée 2 scant cups (from 7 heads) of fresh, peeled garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon kosher salt in a food processor or blender until as smooth as possible; scrape down the sides several times.