Comfort and spark, in a bowl: Cavatelli With Braised Sauerkraut

Chef Michael Friedman’s cavatelli dish is a study in ivory. When it shows up at your table at the Red Hen in D.C., you might expect something simple and soothing, but quick-braised sauerkraut and a mustard-spiked mascarpone add bursts of brightness.

He created the dish after visiting northern Italy’s Alto Adige region, where German and Austrian influences permeate the cooking. Friedman serves it with bacon and without. When he recently moved the dish from the restaurant’s winter menu to spring, he added fresh peas.

It’s easy to re-create, especially now that high-quality sauerkraut is readily available; look for an all-natural one with few ingredients such as Bubbies brand, or the D.C.-area-produced Number 1 Sons.

Cavatelli With Braised Sauerkraut

4 servings

Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 medium thinly sliced yellow onion. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not browned, 5 to 10 minutes.

Add 2 cups drained sauerkraut; reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauerkraut has wilted and softened but hasn’t become mushy, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

Whisk together 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese, 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard and 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt in a bowl.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add 8 ounces dried cavatelli pasta and cook until not quite al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

Return the sauerkraut mixture to medium heat. Add the pasta along with 1/2 cup of its cooking water, stirring to combine. Stir in 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter. Cook briefly, adding more cooking water to form a creamy sauce.

Spoon a dollop of the mascarpone mixture on each portion, then sprinkle minced chives over the top (a total of 3 tablespoons).