Here’s how smart Michael Schlow is about Latin cooking: The Boston chef-restaurateur borrowed the notion of a paella sofrito – that aromatic wonder base of sauteed vegetable bits – to create a risotto.
And it isn’t just any sofrito, but one that builds a sly, round heat on the shoulders of dried ancho chili pepper, fresh poblano, onion and house-made chorizo. The dish has been served at his Tico in Beantown since its opening night in 2011, and it has become the go-to bowl of comfort at the Tico in Washington.
Few domestic culinary endeavors taste this rich and inviting with less than an hour’s work. The risotto is creamy with a little chew and salty at the finish, ensuring that nothing is ever left on the plate.
Chorizo Risotto
2 servings
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Soak 1 or 2 dried ancho chili peppers in hot water, then drain, seed and puree them to yield 1 tablespoon.
Dice and seed 1 poblano chili pepper. Dice 1/2 onion. Cut 2 links (4 ounces total) of cured (cooked) chorizo in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into thin half-moons. Combine in a saucepan, along with a generous 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Stir to coat and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low; cook until the vegetables are tender.
Add 1 cup arborio rice; stir for 1 minute to coat, then add a pinch of fresh thyme leaves.
Increase the heat to medium-high; use a wooden spoon to stir in the first ladleful of 3 cups warmed no-salt-added chicken broth or vegetable broth. Cook until the broth has almost evaporated before adding the next ladleful. Repeat to use all the broth; the cooking should take 18 to 22 minutes total, and the rice should be creamy yet a little al dente.
Stir in the ancho chili puree, 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons chopped scallion until well incorporated, then stir in 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Taste and season lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed.
Divide between warmed bowls. Garnish with a little more chopped scallion and Parmigiano.