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Monday, March 18, 2024
March 18, 2024

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Peel a plantain, and elevate a taco

The Columbian
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A day in which I learn a new taco-filling idea is a good day. I have my standbys, including lentils and other beans (black, pinto and garbanzo), squash, greens, corn, poblano peppers, sweet potatoes, eggs — in various combinations and with countless nuts, cheese, herbs, condiments and other add-ins. And I love them all. But when you make tacos as often as I do — at least twice a week — any revelation is cause for celebration, or at least gratitude.

The previous leap forward came when I opened Jason Wyrick’s book “Vegan Tacos” and saw his technique for griddle-searing chunks of zucchini, a technique that gets them barely tender but not mushy, making them perfect to fold into soft corn tortillas, along with wilted Swiss chard. So suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised when the recipe that attracted me the most when I looked through the new book “Living the Farm Sanctuary Life” was another one of Wyrick’s.

He’s not the author; that would be Farm Sanctuary president Gene Baur. But Wyrick is one of the many vegan chefs and writers who contributed recipes to support Baur’s book, which also offers a dose of Farm Sanctuary’s animal-friendly philosophy and tips for those who want to try veganism.

When Wyrick develops them, vegan tacos don’t seem like a stretch. In fact, this recipe’s main filling ingredient — plantains that you char on the grill (or on a grill pan inside), then toss in fresh lime juice, salt and ancho chili powder — is destined to become my new Mexican-recipe staple, soon to find its way into quesadillas and enchiladas and onto tostadas. And as much as I love cheese, when you combine the spiced plantain chunks with red cabbage, salsa verde and pumpkin seeds, these tacos don’t need anything else.

That doesn’t mean I don’t want to try something else anyway. Next week, I might throw in some chickpeas, too. Everything is better with chickpeas.

Tacos With Grilled Plantains

4 servings.

You can sear the plantains on a griddle or grill pan instead of an outdoor grill. It’s important to use plantains that are neither too ripe (mostly black) nor too unripe and firm (mostly green), but ones that give slightly when pressed and are mostly yellow, with green tinges. Adapted from a recipe by Jason Wyrick in “Living the Farm Sanctuary Life,” by Gene Baur (Rodale, 2015).

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for coating the grill

2 medium semi-ripe plantains, peeled (about 1 1/4 pounds; see headnote)

Finely grated zest and juice from 1 lime (1 tablespoon zest and 1 tablespoon juice)

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more as needed

1 teaspoon ground ancho chili powder

Eight 6-inch corn tortillas

2 cups packed shredded red cabbage

1 cup homemade or store-bought salsa verde (see related recipe)

3/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas; see note)

Prepare a grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to medium (350 degrees). If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or wood briquettes; when the briquettes are ready, distribute them under the cooking area for direct heat. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for about 4 or 5 seconds. Have ready a spray water bottle for taming any flames. Lightly coat the grill rack with oil and place it on the grill.

Brush the plantains with the oil. Grill them, turning as needed, until they are lightly charred on several sides, 5 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into slices or bite-size pieces, then toss them in a large bowl with the lime zest and juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt and the chili powder. Taste, and add salt as needed.

Warm the tortillas on the grill for 5 seconds per side (to make them pliable); divide among individual plates. Fill each tortilla with 1/4 cup cabbage, a few pieces of plantain and a few tablespoons of salsa. Evenly distribute all the pumpkin seeds. Serve warm.

Note: To toast the pumpkin seeds, heat a large, heavy skillet over low-to-medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and cook, tossing them occasionally, until the seeds are fragrant and slightly puffed, 5 to 7 minutes. Cool completely before using.

Nutrition Per serving: 430 calories, 12 g protein, 67 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 440 mg sodium, 9 g dietary fiber, 21 g sugar.

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