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Chicken dish fails to disappoint

The Columbian
Published: January 5, 2015, 4:00pm

You’ll want to wear something with some give around the middle when you order the chicken schnitzel at DGS Delicatessen in D.C. Chef Brian Robinson marinates a pounded boneless thigh, coats it with a spot-on rye bread crumb mix and fries it. Then, he bastes it with oregano-infused brown butter (step cut for simplicity’s sake). The portion practically covers its accompaniments of braised red cabbage, creamy spuds and a house-made apple mustard that cuts through the richness.

Chicken Schnitzel With Braised Red Cabbage

4 generous servings

o For the brine:

1 cup water

1 cup buttermilk

¼ cup kosher salt

3 crushed garlic cloves

2 bay leaves

3 oregano sprigs

1 teaspoon deli mustard

4 7-ounce boneless, skinless chicken thighs

o For the braised cabbage:

¼ cup chicken schmaltz (rendered fat)

1 thinly sliced sweet onion

2 sliced garlic cloves

1 tablespoon sugar

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup dry white wine

1 small head cored and thinly sliced red cabbage

½ cup chicken broth

Generous pinch of kosher salt

o For the schnitzel:

2 cups flour, divided

2 cups fresh rye bread crumbs

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

2 lightly beaten large eggs

¼ cup canola oil

o For the condiment:

1 cup peeled, cubed Granny Smith apple

1-2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

For the brine, combine water and buttermilk in a pot over medium. Dissolve salt into the mixture; remove from the heat. Transfer to a deep bowl; once cooled, stir in garlic, bay leaves, oregano sprigs, mustard.

Working with one at a time, place the chicken thighs between pieces of plastic wrap. Pound them evenly thin, discard the wrap, then add to the brine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

For the braised cabbage, heat schmaltz (rendered fat) in a pot over medium-low heat. Add sweet onion and garlic cloves; cook just until softened. Increase the heat to medium; stir in sugar, apple cider vinegar and dry white wine. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add red cabbage, chicken broth and kosher salt. Cover and cook for 2 hours, stirring a few times, until the cabbage is tender.

For the schnitzel, whisk together 1 cup flour, rye bread crumbs, onion powder and garlic powder in a shallow bowl. Place remaining flour in another shallow bowl and eggs in a third. Layer paper towels under a wire rack.

Coat each thigh in the flour, then the egg, then the bread crumb mixture. Discard the marinade.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium. Cook the schnitzels one at a time for a total of 3 minutes, until golden brown on both sides and cooked through. Transfer to the rack to drain.

For the condiment, stir together apple and mustard in a small bowl.

Garnish dish with fresh oregano leaves.

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