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All the crispness and flavor, none of the remorse with these fries

The Columbian
Published: January 26, 2015, 4:00pm

For as long as I can remember, I have craved crisp potatoes in any form: hash browns, potato chips, french fries. I find them all irresistible. When I was a kid, my favorite snack was a can of potato “stix,” and for a recent birthday my celebratory lunch was a large cone of Belgian fries from a hole-in-the-wall frites shop.

It’s exactly that yearning that compelled me to the kitchen to come up with a way to hit the french fry spot more healthfully, so I could indulge more often with no downsides.

Mission accomplished. These are so good, I would go so far as to say I prefer them over regular fries, because they are enticingly crisp, taste somehow more potato-y, and have no greasiness.

To make them, cut russet potatoes into thin sticks, toss with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and spread them on a baking sheet in a single layer. Use two baking sheets if you need to so the potatoes don’t overlap, because they won’t crisp up as well otherwise. Then bake in a hot oven until they are crisp and golden brown.

There is no need to peel the potatoes; the skins give them a rustic appeal and contribute fiber and nutrients. And don’t bother tossing them as they cook. They tend to stick to the pan if you try to move them before they are well browned, and they come out beautifully when you just leave them be until they are done.

These “fries” are delicious simply salted, but you can also play with any number of flavorings. Toss with garlic powder, Cajun seasoning or chili powder before you put them in the oven; or sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese or chopped fresh herbs once the potatoes are about halfway done.

Here, I took them in a Spanish direction with smoked paprika and rosemary, which add a heady aroma and earthy depth of flavor. Sure, I go back to that Belgian frites place now and then, but for everyday eating, there is no better way to satisfy those crisp-potato cravings.

Smoked Paprika Oven Fries

4 servings

Smoked paprika and rosemary add a Spanish accent, a heady aroma and an earthy depth of flavor. From nutritionist and cookbook author Ellie Krieger.

3 large, skin-on russet potatoes (about 1 3/4 pounds total)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika (pimenton)

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

Position oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Use cooking oil spray to grease two rimmed baking sheets.

Cut the potatoes into 1/4-inch-thick matchsticks, transferring them to a large mixing bowl as you work. Add the oil, smoked paprika and salt (to taste), tossing to coat evenly. Divide between the baking sheets, spreading them in a single layer; roast (on the upper and lower racks) for 10 minutes, then scatter the rosemary evenly over the potatoes (do not stir) and rotate the sheets top to bottom and front to back. Roast for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are golden and crisped.

Taste, and season lightly with a bit more salt, if desired. Serve hot.

Nutrition 5/8 Per serving: 220 calories, 4 g protein, 37 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 160 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar

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