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Monday, March 18, 2024
March 18, 2024

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Simple steps can take lentils from plain to perfect

The Columbian
Published:

When you’re trying to cook a quick dinner with not too many unusual ingredients – most of the time, in other words – some small touches can take something that would otherwise taste thrown together and turn it into something that tastes more thoughtful, more interesting and ultimately more satisfying.

Take a dish of lentils, mushrooms and kale. Sounds hearty, nutritious and simple, yes? Maybe a touch boring, too. But then you employ a few smart extra steps. You brown some butter before cooking onions in it, giving a nutty flavor to the whole shebang. You sear the chopped mushrooms so thoroughly that they get caramelized, almost burned, adding even more depth. Finally, you judiciously employ a little cream, less than you might think (just 1/2 cup for four servings), for richness. The lentils have been cooked separately before you simmer them with the cooked mushrooms in the cream, and the kale gets barely cooked, just enough to tenderize it.

The crowning touch, if you’d like: a sunny-side-up egg.

The idea comes from Ashley Rodriguez’s new book, “Date Night In.” As Valentine’s Day approaches, it’s a lesson that could apply as effectively to relationship maintenance as to cooking. Pay attention to the little things, and they just might add up to something bigger.

Braised Lentils With Mushrooms and Kale

4 servings

Nutrition, meet indulgence: This bowl of wintry comfort food combines three healthful ingredients with a dash of cream (and some brown butter) for richness. Topping each serving with a sunny-side-up egg is an optional flourish. Adapted from “Date Night In,” by Ashley Rodriguez (Running Press, 2014).

1 cup dried French green lentils

3 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought vegetable broth

12 ounces assorted mushrooms (such as cremini, shiitake and oyster), cleaned

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 cup dry white wine (may substitute sake or sherry)

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream (may substitute half-and-half)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (optional)

4 large eggs (optional)

8 ounces kale, stemmed and coarsely chopped

Rinse the lentils thoroughly. Combine them with the broth in a medium pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat until the liquid is barely bubbling and cook, uncovered, until the lentils have swelled and absorbed much of the liquid and are barely tender but intact and not mushy, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Remove and discard the stems from any mushrooms of the tough-stem variety, such as shiitakes. (For oysters, remove and discard just the thickest part of the bottom of the stem, and leave creminis and button mushrooms intact.) Coarsely chop the mushrooms.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat; cook for a few minutes, until it is lightly browned. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for another minute, until the onion just starts to get tender. Add the mushrooms and salt in an even layer. Cook undisturbed for 2 minutes or until the bottom layer is deeply browned. Stir a few times, pack the mushrooms into an even layer again and cook undisturbed for another 2 minutes or until the bottom layer is browned. Repeat another time or two, until all the mushrooms are deeply caramelized and have shrunk, 7 to 9 minutes total.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for another minute, then pour in the wine. Deglaze the pan by scraping up all the flavorful brown bits from the bottom. Cook to reduce the wine until no liquid remains.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the cream. Let it bubble gently for 2 minutes, until slightly reduced and thickened, then add the cooked lentils and their liquid. Stir to combine, taste, and add more salt if needed. Cover the pan and let it cook, barely bubbling, for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, if using the eggs, pour the oil into a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Crack in the eggs and sprinkle lightly with salt. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until the whites are just set but the yolks are still runny. Use a spatula to transfer the eggs to a clean plate while you finish the lentils.

Add the kale to the lentils. Cover and cook until the kale is tender but still bright green, 2 to 3 minutes.

Taste, and add more salt, if desired. Divide the lentils among serving bowls and top each with an egg, if using. Serve hot.

Per serving: 450 calories, 19 g protein, 45 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 330 mg sodium, 18 g dietary fiber, 9 g sugar

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