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Market Fresh Finds: Variety of cane berries bursting with flavor

The Columbian
Published: July 10, 2015, 12:00am

Blackberries, boysenberries and Marionberries … oh, my!

Cane berries are soft, delicate fruits that grow on thorny bushes or trailing vines. Technically, the berry is a drupelet, or a cluster of fruits, like a bunch of grapes, and the seed inside each drupelet contributes to the berry’s nutrient value.

Cane berries include a large number of varieties, but today let’s focus on blackberries, boysenberries, Marionberries and kotataberries.

Blackberries varieties include the Himalayan and evergreen, and to some are considered an invasive plant. Blackberries are red before they are ripe, and turn black when ripe. They are smaller and sweeter than boysenberries, and have large seeds that many people don’t care for.

The boysenberry is a cross among a European raspberry, a common blackberry, an American dewberry and a loganberry. It is a large fruit, with large seeds and a deep maroon color. They are more fragile than the blackberry. The exact origins of the boysenberry are unclear. Southern California farmer and berry expert Walther Knott helped in the search for the elusive berry. He rescued several vines and sold berries at his fruit stand that ultimately became the famous Knott’s Berry Farm, based largely on the popularity of Mrs. Knott’s boysenberry pies and preserves.

The Marionberry, a native berry of Oregon, a cross among the Olallieberry, loganberry and youngberry. It is a medium-large, round berry that is longer than it is wide. It has a flavor that is complex, rich and earthy, with a good blend of sweetness and tartness. It also has a firmer texture, allowing it to store better.

Kotataberries are large, black, firm and longish, and have a glossy skin that dulls as it ripens. Kotata is a cross between the North American blackberry and red raspberry.

Cane berries are at their peak mid-June to late July and are available at local farmers markets now. Cane berries won’t ripen once they have been picked, so look for uniform color and a strong berry scent. Inspect the packaging for mold or stains, especially on the bottom of the package. Mold shows that the berries have already started to go bad, and stains indicate that the berries are overripe. Refrigerate unwashed berries, loosely covered, in a single layer until ready for use. Heaping them on top of one another can crush the berries.

Cane berries are most commonly used in desserts such as pies, crumbles, ice cream and smoothies, but can complement lamb, pork and poultry when used in a glaze.

Freezing berries when they’re the ripest extends the joy of fresh fruit flavor year round. Wash the berries gently and spread them on a baking tray and place it in the freezer until frozen solid. Transfer the berries to a freezer-proof container and store for up to eight months. As a general rule, don’t thaw berries before using in baking recipes, as they will “weep” precious juice.

Cane berries make a delicious jam or jelly, and are great canned whole with simple syrup. Canned berry pie filling is also a popular way to persevere berries for quick pie baking later. For a preserved pie filling recipe, visit bit.ly/FruitPieFilling.

It is important to always use tested recipes and processing methods such as those offered by the WSU Clark County Extension.


Judi Seifert is a WSU Clark County Extension master food preserver. For more information, call the master food preserver program at 360-697-6060, ext. 5366, or visit ext100.wsu.edu/clark.

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