Practice makes sweet potatoes perfect

Many a dish is best celebrated on occasion at the big occasion. And yet, practice makes perfect.

The puzzle comes to mind in autumn, the runup to Thanksgiving. Eyeing the sweet potatoes lolling in their bin, I wonder will premature pur?e dampen enthusiasm for the big day?

I boil a batch, mash it, season it and spike it with rum. The golden mound, with its buttery bite, brings to mind the fall feast, but it holds its own on the weeknight plate. Maybe for the potato, practice is perfection.

Preseason Sweet Potatoes

Prep: 20 minutes; Cook: 20 minutes; Serves: 6 as a side dish

Adapted by chef Cindy Wolf, Baltimore

3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into large chunks

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1/4 cup heavy cream

3 to 4 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons dark rum, optional

Settle potatoes in a large saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Stir in sugar, salt, cinnamon, black pepper and cayenne. Bring to a boil, lower heat a bit and cook until potatoes turn tender (poke one with a skewer or fork), about 15 minutes.

Drain potatoes. Return them to the empty pot set over low heat. Shake until potatoes dry out, about 3 minutes.

Press potatoes through a potato ricer into a large heatproof bowl, or smash with a potato masher.

Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Gently stir in butter, cream and brown sugar. Add a little more of the spices, if you like. Stir in rum, if you like. Enjoy, even before Thanksgiving.