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Fall’s perfect scoop

By Bonnie S. Benwick, The Washington Post
Published: October 13, 2015, 5:59am

Victoria Lai’s frozen ode to apple-picking season makes a convincing case that fall is actually the best time to eat ice cream.

“You get to share the bounty of the autumn fruit while holding onto the joys of a summer scoop,” says the owner of Ice Cream Jubilee in D.C.’s Navy Yard. Lai designed her salty apple cinnamon flavor to taste like the last bites of apple pie a la mode, complete with a helping of diced apple that stays crunchy once it’s folded into the cold.

She has shared a simple recipe that yields just enough to ensure the ice cream will be consumed quickly, and made often.

Salty Apple Cinnamon Ice Cream

2 to 4 servings (Makes 1 pint)

To make the ice cream base, whisk together 2 large egg yolks with 1/3 cup granulated sugar in a mixing bowl, until thick and golden-yellow.

Combine 1/2 cup heavy cream, 1 cup whole milk and a pinch of fine sea salt in a saucepan over medium heat; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring; do not let the mixture boil. Remove from the heat; gradually pour 1/4 cup of the cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Gradually whisk in another 1/4 cup of the cream mixture, then pour the newly combined mixture all into the saucepan, whisking as you go. Cook over medium-low heat, until the temperature of the mixture registers 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

Whisk in 2 heaping tablespoons light brown sugar, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, a pinch each of ground cloves and freshly grated nutmeg, and 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard any solids. Cool, cover and refrigerate for 4 hours or up to overnight.

Pour the cold ice cream base into a frozen ice cream maker; churn according to the manufacturer’s directions. After the first 20 minutes, add 3/4 cup peeled, diced, firm apple, then continue to churn.

Once the ice cream has reached a soft-serve consistency, transfer it to a freezer-safe container, seal and freeze for at least 4 hours before serving.

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