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News / Life / Clark County Life

Original Taco House lacks some sizzle

Traditional Mexican dishes abundant but bland, lukewarm

By Karen Livingston for The Columbian
Published: July 1, 2016, 6:01am
3 Photos
Nachos with taco beef, from left, are seen with steak fajitas as well as a crispy shell chicken taco with rice and beans at The Original Taco House in Vancouver.
Nachos with taco beef, from left, are seen with steak fajitas as well as a crispy shell chicken taco with rice and beans at The Original Taco House in Vancouver. (Amanda Cowan/The Columbian) Photo Gallery

Why: The Original Taco House was opened in Portland in 1960 by the Waddle family. The Vancouver location opened four years ago in a house-style restaurant which was formally occupied by a different Mexican restaurant. Original Taco House offers family-friendly dining with menu options that cover some basics of Mexican cuisine.

What I tried: I tried the steak fajitas with corn and flour tortillas. The fajitas come with Spanish rice, refried beans, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream. The steak, onion, and bell pepper fajita mixture arrived at the table sizzling on an iron platter. The first thing I noted was the lack of traditional fajita aroma from what wafted up from the platter. Upon tasting the steak, my suspicion was confirmed – there was no trace of any special seasonings used on the meat. It tasted of simple salt and peppered beef. Most of the meat was extremely chewy, which was unappetizing. The plate that held the accompaniments was lukewarm, as were the rice and beans that sat upon it. The small portion of refried beans looked as though they had been sitting under a warmer for a while because they had a darkened, dry coating. The rice was lightly seasoned and, like the beans, amounted to a small portion and was rather dry. An adequate amount of guacamole and sour cream shared a small bowl. The pico de gallo did not taste as flavorfully fresh as most which I have had at other Mexican restaurants.

Overall, my meal was a disappointment and did not compel me to want to return. The portions were reasonable for the single fajitas which I ordered, but the $15.95 price did not reflect portion size or food quality.

Atmosphere: Outdoor dining is available on a covered patio, where a potpourri of different tables and chairs add interest to the atmosphere. Within, the dining space is divided into a barroom and a dining room, with most of the seating at generously sized colorfully upholstered and hand-painted booths. Walls are finished in heavily textured stucco painted white, and decorative tiles trim doorways and some interior wall space. The ceiling is covered with rattan. Lighting consists of wall sconces and basket-style hanging fixtures. Artificial flowers, multicolored sombreros and black-and-white photos complete the decor.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Nachos are among the appetizers and may be ordered with either taco beef or shredded white chicken. Street tacos are on the menu and may be prepared with chipotle chicken, barbacoa beef, pork carnitas, potato & green chili with Mexi crema, chorizo with green chili crema, barbecue pork with el ranch slaw, or fried Mahi Mahi with cilantro slaw. These tacos are served with rice, beans, pico de gallo, jalapeno sauce and limes. A taco salad bowl and a tostada are among the specials. Burritos include a veggie burrito, which consists of a tomato basil tortilla filled with black beans, cilantro lime rice, grilled vegetables and pico de gallo. American food options include burger baskets, and macaroni and cheese. Dessert options are limited to fried ice cream, ice cream and sorbet.

Other observations: Although the food has a lot of room for improvement, the service was friendly and attentive. Aside from quality, prices are fairly high for the portions compared with other Vancouver Mexican restaurants. The “original” Original Taco House in Portland was known for bringing handmade tamales and chili rellenos to locals. In my opinion, the Vancouver location is far from giving a positive, lasting impression that will be worth mentioning 56 years from now.

Cost: Appetizers start at $4.95 and top out at $17.95. Tacos are $8.95 to $14.95, specialties are $7.95 to $12.95. Combinations cost $12.95 to $17.95. Soup is $5.95 for a cup or $7.95 for a bowl (you may add chicken for $2). Burritos and bowls cost $9.95 to $13.95. Fajitas come in single-serving size for $15.95 and $16.95, and double-serving size for $18.95 and $23.95. A few American options cost $8.45 or $8.95. Desserts are $3 and $4.95.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Happy hour specials are offered from 3 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 3 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close Friday and Saturday, and all day on Sunday.

Where: 10820 N.E. Coxley Drive, Vancouver.

Contact: 360-892-2929 or www.originaltacohouse.com

Health score: Original Taco House received a score of 5 on March 30. Zero is a perfect score. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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