Make a show-stopping spring risotto without much effort

In my great spring rush to cook asparagus, over and over — finally, a fresh, non-leafy green vegetable at the farmers market! — I always include risotto in the rotation. When I snap the ends of asparagus to trim it, I save them up to make a one-vegetable broth, and use that to swell the short-grain rice in the classic Italian dish. The rest of the spears get sauteed until tender, set aside and then folded back into the risotto at the end of cooking.

Well, here’s another idea that had never occurred to me: using asparagus in a red-wine risotto, one of my favorite iterations, and pairing it with mushrooms.

Why not? Turns out that the flavors match, while the asparagus offers something this particular risotto desperately needs: a burst of green to offset that dull mauve color.

If you’re not already on the risotto bandwagon, let me get you aboard by telling you this: It’s so much more malleable, forgiving and even easy than we have been taught. You don’t really have to stir constantly — every now and then is fine — and as long as the heat is kept on the low side and you add the hot liquid gradually, you’re in business. Arborio and other short-grain rices get wonderfully creamy without much effort on your part, and yet risotto is impressive enough that dinner party guests will think you’re a casual, unassuming genius if you serve it in between a simple salad and a homey dessert.

There are some crucial, must-pay-attention moments, and they come at the end, when it’s best to stop as soon as the rice is tender but still a little al dente. Finish it quickly with a little more broth and some cheese, and serve immediately. (Believe it or not, you don’t really need butter.) What you’re after is something that spreads a little on the plate: loose but not soupy — and certainly not stiff.

This particular recipe calls for shiitake mushrooms, but if you happen to score some morels — one of the other stars of spring — the match becomes a marriage.

 Asparagus and Mushroom Risotto

4 servings

Red wine gives this risotto deep flavor and a lavender hue; crisp-tender asparagus contributes a pop of color and texture.

Vegetarians avoiding cheeses made with animal rennet should look for domestic Parmesan that uses vegetable-based rennet, such as BelGioioso brand.

Adapted from “EatingWell Vegetables: The Essential Reference,” by the editors of EatingWell magazine (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016).

4 cups store-bought or homemade mushroom broth (may substitute vegetable broth)

1 cup water

1 bunch asparagus (about 1 pound), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms (may substitute your favorite variety of mushroom)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup chopped shallots

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 cup arborio rice

1 cup cabernet sauvignon or other full-bodied dry red wine

1/2 cup finely shredded vegetarian Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish (see headnote)

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine the broth and the water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat; bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and add the asparagus. Cook until just crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the asparagus to a bowl. Reduce the heat of the broth mixture to low.

Discard the shiitake stems or reserve for another use (such as broth). Thinly slice the mushroom caps.

Pour the oil into a large, wide pot over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the shallots, garlic and thyme; cook, stirring, until the vegetables start to soften, 2 minutes. Add the shiitakes and cook, stirring frequently, until they soften and wilt, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring frequently, until the wine is absorbed, 4 to 6 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add 1 1/2 cups of the broth and cook, stirring, until it is mostly absorbed. Continue adding the broth in 1/2-cup increments and stirring frequently after each addition, until most of the liquid is absorbed. The risotto is done when all but 1/2 cup of the broth is used and the rice is creamy and just tender, with a very slight al dente bite, 25 to 30 minutes total.

Stir in the reserved asparagus and cook for 1 minute, to warm it through. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese, parsley, salt and pepper. Taste, and add more salt, as needed.

Immediately before serving, stir in the remaining 1/2 cup of broth so the risotto is loose enough to spread in a bowl. (You don’t want it to be stiff.) Divide among shallow bowls and sprinkle on more cheese and parsley, if desired.

Per serving: 340 calories, 13 g protein, 49 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 830 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar