Among the grilled and smoked foods, bivalves seem special somehow. (Think oysters and New Year’s.) They’re also among the easiest to prepare, as long as you know the basics.
“You learn by your mistakes,” says Judith M. Fertig, the co-author of “Fish & Shellfish, Grilled & Smoked,” published back in 2002 but still one of my favorites. “When we wrote the book, you couldn’t google things. Not a lot of people were blogging. So you just had to experiment. When we experimented with mussels and oysters, we thought you could just put them on and smoke. We learned you couldn’t do that, because they need a high temperature to open.”
Fertig these days employs a technique she calls “kiss of smoke,” which involves starting a hot indirect charcoal fire and setting wood chips or chunks at the fire’s periphery, just long enough to smolder. “When you see the wisp of smoke, that’s when you put on the oysters,” she says. The bivalves can go on the indirect-heat side of the fire or over direct heat, with a close eye. They open within a few minutes and take on just a light smoke.
Being careful not to overcook mollusks is important. “People always worry about oysters not getting done,” Fertig says. “That’s the opposite of what you should worry about. People eat them raw.”
Same goes for mussels and clams.
Dorian Brown, owner of Neopol Savory Smokery in Union Market, sells meaty, wonderfully smoked mussels, sometimes Prince Edward Islands, sometimes New Zealands. “You gotta get the smoke on there,” Brown says, but adds, “too long and they turn to ash.”
Brown par-steams them, just enough to open them, then marinates them in a citrus-based blend. He declines to divulge the recipe, but says “the marinade should have a little sweetness to offset the smokiness.” He smokes the mussels at a very low 120 degrees for about an hour and moistens them with a little olive oil after they come off the grill.
Adding some fat to the bivalves also adds richness. Kevin Kelly, the executive chef at Rappahannock Oyster Bar, just a short walk from Neopol at Union Market, makes a smoked-jalape?o butter that he serves on the side of grilled oysters on the half shell. “It adds an umami taste,” he says.
I like the taste so much that I add the butter directly into the preparation of a wine, garlic and mussel liquor sauce that I pour over mussels. In a pot on the stove top, I poach the mussels in a cup of white wine, some chopped garlic and a little lemon juice. After the shells open, I remove the mussels from the pot and put them on the cool side of an indirect fire to smoke briefly. Just before serving, I stir the butter into the poaching liquid, then pour the broth over the mussels in a bowl The butter not only imparts a touch more smokiness but also lends a lovely creaminess to the sauce.
Oysters, mussels and clams can be grilled over a hot fire until their shells open. They can be removed from the grill and eaten at that point or left on to take on a little more grill or smoke flavor. Oysters can also be shucked and then smoked.
Whatever the technique, it’s good to save the liquor in the shell, as its rustic flavor adds dimension to almost any dish. I add the liquor to a clam risotto for a hint of smokiness that plays well with the lemony flavor. A longtime friend of mine, Marion Winik, who makes a version of a New Orleans staple, oyster and artichoke stew, recently doctored her version with smoked oysters and their liquor. It was served as an appetizer, but serious restraint was required to not down the entire pot there on the spot.
Now, that was special.
Kiss of Smoke Clam Risotto
4 servings.
This dish uses the “kiss of smoke” method endorsed by Judith M. Fertig, a cookbook author and half of the BBQ Queens barbecue competition team. It provides high heat that opens the clams and a light smoke that simultaneously wafts over them. For a gas grill, you will need ½ cup of hardwood chips (unsoaked) and a small smoker box. For a charcoal grill, you will need 2 fist-size chunks of hardwood, such as oak, pecan or cherry.
MAKE AHEAD: The risotto can be made a few hours in advance. Reheat it gently for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring constantly; add a little extra water or clam juice as needed.
Serve with a salad.
From columnist Jim Shahin.
1½ cups prosecco
2 cups water
32 littleneck clams (about 3 pounds), scrubbed under cold running water
2¼ cups jarred clam juice, may substitute fish broth
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium shallot, minced (3 tablespoons)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup arborio or carnaroli rice
1 teaspoon finely grated zest and 2 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
Combine ½ cup of the prosecco and the water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 16 of the clams. Cover and cook/steam until the clams have fully opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any that don’t open. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a separate saucepan, then add the clam juice and keep warm over low heat. Coarsely chop the clams and place them in a bowl, discarding their shells. Keep the cooking liquid warm over medium-low heat; add the remaining cup of prosecco to the saucepan.
Prepare the grill for indirect heat. If using a gas grill, preheat on high. Put the chips in a small smoker box or foil packet poked with a few fork holes to release the smoke; set it between the grate and the briquettes, close to the flame. Once you see smoke, reduce the heat to medium-high (450 degrees). Turn off the burners on one side.
If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or briquettes; once they are ready, distribute them on one side of the grill. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand 6 inches above the coals for 4 or 5 seconds. Place the wood chunks 3 to 4 inches apart at the outside edge of the coals, so they are barely touching the coals. Have a spray water bottle at hand for taming any flames.
Place the remaining clams on a rimmed baking sheet and carry that to the grill. (You’ll use it to carry the hot clams back to the kitchen.) Once smoke appears, place the clams on the indirect-heat side of the grate and close the grill lid, with the vents open about a quarter of the way. Once the clams are fully open, after 6 to 8 minutes, continue grilling for about 1 minute. Use long-handled tongs to transfer the opened clams to the baking sheet, being careful to keep as much of their liquor in the shells as possible. (They may have hardly any liquid left; that’s OK.) Discard any that do not open. Reserve the clams in their shells.
Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Once the oil is shimmering, stir in the shallot and garlic; cook until soft, about 5 minutes, then add the salt and crushed red pepper flakes. Stir for a few seconds, then add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add a cup of the warm prosecco-clam cooking liquid and the lemon juice; cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost completely absorbed.
Add the remaining prosecco-clam cooking liquid and any residual liquor from the smoked clams, ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly until almost absorbed. Repeat until all or nearly all of the liquid has been used. The risotto should be creamy yet retain a hint of al dente (bite). When adding the last ½ cup of liquid, also add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, butter, parsley, lemon zest and the reserved chopped clams, gently stirring to incorporate.
Divide the risotto among individual warmed bowls. Top each portion equally with the smoked clams in their shells.
Nutrition Per serving: 430 calories, 18 g protein, 43 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 580 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar.
Grilled Oyster and Artichoke Stew
4 to 6 servings (makes about 8½ cups).
When Jim Shahin’s good friend Marion Winik lived in New Orleans in 1983, she loved a version of this brothy Big Easy favorite that was served at a Mid-City neighborhood restaurant called Mandina’s. She makes it to this day, often as an appetizer for special-occasion dinners. Grilling and smoking the oysters creates Jim’s version of Marion’s Mandina’s variation.
For a charcoal grill, you will need 2 fist-size chunks of hardwood, such as oak, pecan or cherry. For a gas grill, you will need ½ cup of hardwood chips and a small smoker box. There’s no need to soak.
MAKE AHEAD: The stew tastes even better after a day’s refrigeration.
Serve with — what else? — oyster crackers.
From columnist Jim Shahin, by way of Marion Winik and Mandina’s Restaurant in New Orleans.
24 large oysters, such as Rappahannock, Blue Point or Gulf Coast, opened and seated in their shells
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 bunch scallions, chopped (white and light-green parts)
3 large celery ribs, chopped (1 generous cup)
3 cloves garlic, minced
Artichoke hearts from two 14-ounce cans, drained, rinsed well and cut into quarters
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups jarred clam juice (may substitute seafood stock or fish stock)
2 cups no-salt-added chicken broth
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Pinch ground cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped, plus more for optional garnish
¼ cup dry vermouth
1 cup half-and-half
1 cup whole milk
Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to medium-high (450 degrees). Place the wood chips in a smoker box or foil packet poked with a few fork holes to release the smoke; set it between the grate and the briquettes, close to the flame. When you see smoke, reduce the heat to medium (375 to 400 degrees).
If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or briquettes; when the briquettes are ready, distribute them under the cooking area for direct heat. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for 4 or 5 seconds. Using long-handled tongs, place the hardwood chunk on the coals, but over to the side. Once the wood chunk catches fire and smoke appears, close the lid and leave the top vents about half open. Have ready a spray water bottle for taming any flames.
Carry the oysters to the grill on a rimmed baking sheet. (You will use it to carry the hot oysters back to the kitchen.) Arrange the oysters on the grill; close the lid and cook for 2 minutes with the top vents half open. Transfer the oysters to the baking sheet, being careful to spill as little of their liquor as possible. (They might not have much liquor; that’s OK.) Let cool.
Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Stir in the scallions, celery and garlic; cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until just softened, then stir in the artichokes and cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the pot’s ingredients and stir to coat; cook for about 1 minute, then add the salt, clam juice, chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper and thyme. Reduce the heat to low; cook for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Pour the vermouth and any oyster liquor from the shells and baking sheet into the pot. Cook for 10 minutes, then stir in the half-and-half and milk. Coarsely chop the cooled oysters and add them to the pot; cook for 2 minutes, stirring; make sure the stew does not come to a boil. (Discard the shells.) Remove from the heat. The stew can be served right away, or you can let it cool, then refrigerate it for at least 8 hours and up to overnight.
To serve, reheat the soup over low heat until warmed through. Garnish with fresh thyme leaves, if desired.
Nutrition Per serving (based on 6): 300 calories, 8 g protein, 14 g carbohydrates, 22 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 730 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar.
Smoked Mussels in Jalapeño Butter
2 to 4 servings.
For bivalve lovers, a big bowl of mussels is comfort food. Smoking them lends a rustic flavor; the smoked jalapeño butter adds a divine creaminess. The butter can be put to a wide variety of uses: Top a hot steak with it, or slather it on toast.
You’ll need a vegetable grilling basket for the mussels. For a gas grill, you’ll need 1 1/2 cups of hickory wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes and drained. For a charcoal grill, you’ll need one fist-size chunk of hardwood (unsoaked), such as pecan, oak or apple.
MAKE AHEAD: The smoked jalapeño butter needs to be refrigerated for at least 2 hours before serving. You’ll have plenty left over; it can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.
Serve with lots of crusty bread, for dipping.
From columnist Jim Shahin; the smoked jalapeño butter comes from Kevin Kelly, executive chef of Rappahannock Oyster Bar in Union Market in Washington.
For the smoked jalapeño butter:
2 medium jalapeño peppers, stems discarded, cut in half lengthwise, seeded
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Kosher salt
For the mussels:
1 pound of mussels (approximately 25), scrubbed and debearded under cold running water
1 cup dry white wine
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
For the smoked jalapeño butter: Prepare the grill for indirect heat. If using a gas grill, preheat on medium-high (450 degrees). Put half of the drained chips in a smoker box or foil packet poked with a few fork holes to release the smoke; set it between the grate and the briquettes, close to the flame. When you see smoke, reduce the heat to medium (375 to 400 degrees). Turn off the burners on one side. You’ll be using indirect heat for the mussels as well, so keep the same grill setup, with the lid closed, after the peppers are done.
If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or briquettes; once the briquettes are ready, distribute them on one side of the grill. Place the chunk of hardwood on the ready coals. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand 6 inches above the coals for 4 or 5 seconds. Close the lid, with the vent open a quarter of the way. Have a spray water bottle on hand for taming any flames.
Arrange the jalapenos on the indirect-heat side of the grate, cut sides down. Close the lid and smoke the jalapenos for 10 to 20 minutes, until they are soft and charred. Transfer to a plate. Once they’re cool enough to handle, discard the skins, if desired. Coarsely chop the peppers.
Combine the jalapeños and butter in a medium bowl; use an immersion (stick) blender or a hand whisk to blend until smooth and well mixed. Season lightly with salt. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter; transfer the jalapeño butter there and roll/wrap it into a tight log, twisting the ends of the plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours (and up to 1 week) before using.
For the mussels: Discard any mussels that are open and don’t close tightly when tapped.
Combine the wine, garlic and lemon juice in a large pot over high heat; bring to a boil, then add the mussels. Cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes.
If using a gas grill, put the remaining drained wood chips in a smoker box or foil packet poked with a few fork holes to release the smoke; set it between the grate and the briquettes, close to the flame (still on medium heat). For either a gas or charcoal grill, transfer the mussels (in their shells) to the vegetable grilling basket and place on the indirect-heat side of the grate, discarding any that did not open. Close the lid and smoke them for 3 minutes (their shells will take on a burnished look), then transfer to a large bowl.
Warm the liquid that’s in the pot over low heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the smoked jalapeño butter, stirring to form a well-blended sauce.
Immediately pour over the mussels; serve right away.
Nutrition Per serving (based on 4): 100 calories, 4 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar