Smokehouse Provisions is BBQ at its best

Why: Newly opened and locally owned by Executive Chef BJ Smith, Smokehouse Provisions at The Mill shopping center is the third of its kind and the first Vancouver location. The family restaurant focuses on locally sourced meats, which are rubbed and smoked in-house for a delicious barbecue experience.

What I tried: My dining companion and I had the Frito pie, pulled-pork poutine and the bacon-molasses cornbread from the starters. We settled on the braised greens from the sides and the smoked salmon and beef brisket from the meat selection.

I loved the nostalgic quality of the Frito pie — also known as a pepper belly — which was made in a single-serving Frito chip bag. Smoked brisket chili verde was poured over the chips and topped with grated cheddar cheese and onions. The chili was meaty and possessed a spicy heat that increased with every bite.

The pulled-pork poutine was the favorite of our selections. This dish started with a bed of crispy, golden fries, which were topped with a layer of yummy, smoked pork gravy. Ellsworth cheese curds were added, and the dish was topped off with a layer of lean, flavorful pulled pork. The result was an appetizing wonder of flavors and textures sure to be a favorite of those who indulge.

The cornbread muffin was topped with a few bits of baked-in bacon and generously drizzled with honey. It had a dense consistency and a cakelike sweetness almost suitable for dessert.

The braised greens (collard greens) were mixed with shallots, bacon, vinegar and brown butter. This classic barbecue accompaniment was prepared just right to expose the best of the leafy greens and bring tradition to the table, with a savory flavor and tangy finish to every bite.

I found that the rub on the smoked salmon made it quite salty. The brisket was expertly prepared and sliced into thin pieces. It was lean, tender and appetizing.

Overall, our meal exceeded our expectations and provided memorable flavors that will definitely bring us back for more.

Other menu highlights: Among the meat options are hot link sausage, pulled pork, smoked king oyster mushrooms, brisket burnt ends, smoked chicken and spare ribs. A warm, house-made milk bun served with butter and pickled vegetables, cold-smoked oyster shooters and a deviled egg with a hot link are available as starters. Sides include macaroni and cheese made with three cheeses, bacon and cornbread crumbs; barbecue beans; and coleslaw. The chili cheese dog, made with smoked brisket chili verde and an Olympia Provisions frankfurter, sounded delicious. A wedge salad, Cobb salad, and heirloom beets with arugula, smoked hazelnuts, whipped goat cheese and honey vinaigrette make up the salad options. Burgers include a Smokehouse Burger — made with smoked bone marrow butter, bacon-onion jam and American cheese — as well as a basic burger. Cocktails, beer and wine also are available.

Atmosphere: Wood, concrete, damask wallpaper and white tile made up the foundation for the urban-western decor. Symmetry of elements throughout the restaurant created a sophisticated space. A collection of framed mirrors hung on a bare concrete wall, providing a dramatic contrast with their reflections. Seating consisted of tables set for two to 10 diners, with ample distance between them. The smokehouse aroma in the air imparted a prelude to what to expect on your plate.

Other observations: The waitstaff is very attentive, professional, knowledgeable and friendly. The menu offers the best of barbecue fare, and prices are in line with quality. Dessert and brunch menus are scheduled to launch later this fall. Smokehouse, like its neighbor Rally Pizza, has raised the bar for other restaurants coming into Clark County.

Cost: Starters and snacks range from $3 to $12. Sides cost $4. Sandwiches are $9. Burgers are $10 and $11. Salads are $7 to $12. Meat is served by the quarter-pound and half-pound and ranges from $5 to $15. Spare ribs are $15 for a half rack and $30 for a full rack.