At this time of year, it’s tough not to rhapsodize about fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes.
There’s something so magical about the plump and juicy red fruits, and the many wonderful dishes in which it plays a starring role – soups, sauces, salads, and even pies and tarts.
This was brought home to me recently on a visit to my son’s apartment in Pittsburgh’s Bloomfield. While pulling out weeds in his front yard, I struck up a conversation with a 93-year-old Italian woman who happened by on a walk around the block with her son. A native of Calabria or maybe Campania in southern Italy (her lilting accent was as thick as it was charming) she told me all about the city garden she’s tended for decades around the corner. Of course it included tomatoes. “If you’re gonna eat,” she said with a wide, toothless grin, “you have to have something to cook.”
That’s Pittsburgh for you. Total strangers chatting it up on the street.
That Christina and her son left a plastic grocery bag full of Roma tomatoes on my son’s back porch a half-hour later was even more Pittsburgh. Slender, firm and the color of a brand-new firetruck, the unexpected gift was like homegrown, culinary gold. But what to do with them?
A handful ended up in a spicy tomato jam perfumed with cumin and ginger. The rest went into a most unlikely dish my editor spied in Cook’s Country: fried red tomatoes.