NEW YORK — The designer Derek Lam was perched on a wooden chair in a penthouse suite of the Greenwich Hotel that looked as though it had been air-lifted from Santa Fe. Dressed in white jeans and a dark shirt, he was describing the inspiration for his spring 2017 collection, and the words that he used again and again were “strong” and “independent.”
Specifically, he’d been inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, the artist who was so often described as “handsome,” a polite way of saying that she was not a great beauty. But that striking face of hers, alongside her formidable body of work, made her an icon nonetheless.
It was her strength, off-putting at first but eventually embraced, that captivated Lam, he explained. And there it was at last in this city’s hectic fashion week, when audiences couldn’t even be sure whether they’d be seeing fall clothes or spring ones on the runway — finally, a thread that connected so many disparate collections.
Strength.
In the latest round of fashion shows that ended Thursday, there were countless iterations of men’s shirting, various shades of orange and a surge in platform shoes. Proenza Schouler, in particular, dazzled the eye with hand-woven dresses, canvas and leather jackets, and an intarsia mink coat that looked great no matter what season it’s intended for.