Food & Drink: Hey Jack is sophisticated, thoughtful, inviting

“But, the first half of fall is really summer. So, we don’t change menus as a whole. We just change dishes based on what the produce is telling us to do.”

Rudolph has enjoyed exploring the local markets and developing relationships with local farmers. He lit up when describing his relationship with Jake and Rachel Reister of Reister Farms in Washougal. He explained, “When Jake walks through that door with the lamb, it’s like somebody with a ball of energy, because you are receiving that product and the energy of that product and the care that they have put into the product and that’s coming into our restaurant and we’re passing that onto our guests.”

While Rudolph has been sourcing local ingredients, Riedthaler (co-owner and sommelier) has been building a formidable wine list. The list is split between local and imported wine. He described his sourcing and his philosophy:

“Right now the idea is to find producers who are really close to the standards of European wine. Then, finding producers that I can use to enlighten people a little. If we can find something folks would never try that are here, that’s international, that may be a counterpoint to what’s local and get them to taste each one. And, get people to think creatively and a little outside the box. Sure, pinot (noir) is king, but there are wonderful varietals out there that really go with the flavor profile of our food.

“We had an interesting interaction with someone the other night who wanted us to pair wines for them. I said, sure, we’ll do a little pairing for you. I gave them an Italian cab franc with their salmon and they just were baffled by that until they tried it. At the end of their meal, they said, ‘I would have never picked cab franc with this dish and I’m so glad that you did.’ And, that’s fun. When somebody walks out and says ‘I’m changing my viewpoint on what I’m supposed to drink’ then our job is done.”

The menu was created to encourage people to have as much or as little as they would like. I recommend coming with several other people so that you can each get a few bites of everything.

The asparagus starter was a plate of fresh, tender warm asparagus framed by bits of dill and slivers of buttery lucques olives. It was served with a large dollop of tangy yogurt and a spread of lentils mixed with tender vegetables. The lamb loin was served with house-made lamb sausage, swiss chard, smoked onion with a sherry vinaigrette glaze, tender Tepary beans with braised lamb neck and butternut squash puree. The salmon was served with walnuts, fresh peas, watercress and tender turnip. All of these dishes were remarkable, but I long for more of that salmon — with its crisp top and tender bright pink flesh that tasted as if it had just been wrested from the sea.

Lately, Pete Wells of The New York Times has lamented the lack of good desserts in New York City. Perhaps he should make a trip to Camas. Kristie Rudolph (whose only formal training is being the wife of the chef) has created a dessert menu that is otherworldly. The decadent, hearth baked valrhona genache was judiciously sprinkled with flakes of sea salt and topped with creamy, whipped creme fraiche and chopped hazelnuts. The lemon curd and meringue parfait with cr?me anglais was a divine cloud of citrus, whipped egg whites and sugar. It provided the perfect way to cleanse the palate at the end of an extraordinary meal.

Rachel Pinsky can be reached by email at couveeats@gmail.com. You can follow her on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram @couveeats.