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News / Life / Clark County Life

Food & Drink: Get an early taste of farmers market

By Rachel Pinsky
Published: March 30, 2018, 6:02am
4 Photos
Junior Estrada, owner of NW Grill Farm-to-Fork, entertains Megan Ashley while heating vegetables.
Junior Estrada, owner of NW Grill Farm-to-Fork, entertains Megan Ashley while heating vegetables. Photos by Rachel Pinsky Photo Gallery

There are many reasons to visit the Vancouver Farmers Market during the early part of its season. It may be a bit cold and rainy, but it’s easy to spend time at all of the booths, parking is easier, and the market isn’t crowded. It gives you time to chat with the vendors and find some overlooked places.

On my recent visit, I discovered NW Grill Farm-To-Fork. According to owner Junior Estrada, he has been at the Vancouver Farmers Market for the last three years. Three years?!?! Why haven’t I been here before? I ordered the quesadillas ($8). In my bowl, I got two moon-shaped quesadillas (made with freshly pressed and grilled tortillas wrapped around creamy Oaxacan cheese) topped with slices of Anjou pears and Gala apples with a sprinkling of crumbly queso anejo cheese. Beneath the quesadillas was a mix of fresh veggies (curly kale, zucchini, and carrots) quickly cooked on the grill. Below the veggies were tender navy beans and garbanzo beans.

Sosina Tedla and her husband, Elias Shashati, were at the Hummus Hummus booth. I got a vegan box — house salad, hummus, falafel, grape leaves, couscous, beets, pickles, olives served with tahini sauce and hot sauce (for $13). The luscious rice-stuffed grape leaves, fresh savory falafel, and rich creamy hummus were the highlights of this vegan feast.

My son and I were enticed by the aroma of sausages grilling in the Scratch Meats booth. British bangers and chicken spinach feta were available to sample. We tried the chicken spinach feta. They were so delectable we decided to take home a four-pack ($13).

The four Silagy brothers manning the Silagy Sauce booth told me that they’re adding two more sauces this season. The first is a roasted habanero — a change from their smoked habanero sauce. This new sauce is made by slow roasting habanero peppers, onions, garlic with some other secret ingredients. The sauce was hot (make sure you have water handy) with a nice balance of heat and flavor. A hatch chile-based sauce will also be available at the market this season.

I checked in with Nathan Meiffren-Swango (market manager) and Erin Timmerman (director of operations) at the Vancouver Farmers Market booth. They encouraged me to report on the market as the season progresses, because it changes as the seasons change. Meiffren-Swango provided me with a list of vendors weeks before. He told me that many of the new vendors had not set up shop yet. Things to look forward to include: a Peruvian food truck (Kichana), a kimchi and granola booth (Crunch Time Foods), an apple cider vinegar-based health tonic booth (Mind Your Manna), a shave ice booth with artisan syrups (So Simple Shave Ice & Fresh Syrups), and a biscuit sandwich booth (Flying Biscuit Baking Co.).

As we talked, we overheard people chanting, “Enough is enough,” from the March for Our Lives nearby. Meiffren-Swango and Timmerman asked if I was covering the rally. I replied that I was just a food writer and I didn’t cover politics. Then, we got into a discussion about how food is political. The farmers market itself is a political act — it connects people with local farmers and serves as an incubator for small, local, artisan food makers (many of which are minority- and/or woman-owned). It made me think about why I repeatedly visit the market and write about it.

I met with Vancouver Farmers Market Executive Director Jordan Boldt a couple of weeks before, and he summed this up well: “I can give my money to these vendors, and I know this is a small Clark County farm, and now the money is theirs. There aren’t major supply chains. You know the quality of the product and your money is going back to a local businessperson who is going to do more of his business and keeping the money in the community.”


Rachel Pinsky can be emailed at couveeats@gmail.com. You can follow her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram @couveeats.

Vancouver Farmers Market

• Address: 650 Esther St.

• Open through Oct. 28. Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays.

• The market accepts SNAP and matches the first $5 spent. Visit the Vancouver Farmers Market booth to get tokens that can be used with market vendors.

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