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News / Life / Dining Out

Burger Bungalow stacks up flavors

The Columbian
Published: July 4, 2014, 12:00am

Why: Burger Bungalow, a family-owned and -operated fast-casual eatery that offers gourmet burgers, opened in 2011. The restaurant has since changed up the burger choices and added some seafood items, such as homemade clam chowder. Burgers are made with 100 percent ground sirloin and fresh Kaiser buns. Burger Bungalow also has beer on tap.

What I tried: I had the Cheesy Cheeseburger, which, according to the menu, is made with a “cheddar cheese-filled beef patty.” My dining companions had the Flat Line burger, with bacon, a fried egg, ham, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and Bungalow sauce, and the O’ahu burger, with provolone cheese, pineapple, homemade teriyaki sauce, lettuce, tomato, onion and Bungalow sauce.

We also had fries, which were served with a delicious sauce with hints of barbecue and mustard flavors. For dessert, we sampled the deep-fried apple fritters drizzled in caramel sauce, and the Yin and Yang cookies, which are half brownie and half chocolate chip.

The burger patties were well done and obviously squashed on the grill, evidenced by a lack of juiciness. My burger had two slices of cheddar layered with the other ingredients instead of a cheese-filled patty, as noted on the menu. The Kaiser buns held together well to the last bite. Although each burger had appetizing toppings and the meat patties were slightly larger in circumference than the buns, we all agreed that the charred particles on the meat dominated the flavor of each burger.

We received a generous portion of crispy fries, which were dipped in the homemade sauce.

The apple fritters reminded me of food at the county fair. Each of the seven pieces were about the size of a donut hole. They reminded me of French toast sticks with apple bits and lacked the glaze on traditional apple fritters. They also were topped with powdered sugar and had more crust than soft center.

The cookies were dry and crumbled easily.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: A Philly cheesesteak and a pulled pork sandwich are on the menu. A veggie patty may be substituted on any of the signature meat burgers. Seafood selections include cod fish and chips, and Baja fish tacos. Looking for chicken gizzards? They have them. They also make old fashioned milkshakes.

Atmosphere: The restaurant’s walls are painted light blue and decorated with nautical-themed pictures and curtains. Large screen televisions provide entertainment that is viewable from any of the booth seating arrangements that fill the floor and perimeter. The booths are minimal without padded seating. Plastic utensils, condiments and sodas are self-served. Overall, the restaurant feels well visited and somewhat dated.

Other observations: The service was friendly and attentive, and prices are comparable to other specialty burger establishments.

Cost: Burgers range from $4.29 to $7.49. Seafood selections cost $3.50 to $12.95. A $5 menu contains various deep-fried items. Milkshakes are $4.


Hours:
11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Telephone: 360-828-1458.

Where: 11215 N.E. 28th St., Suite A1, Vancouver.

Health score: Burger Bungalow received a score of 5 on Jan. 8. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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