If you’re cooking for vegetarians at Thanksgiving, it’s hard to resist the stuffed-pumpkin idea. The vegetarians have their main dish, everyone else has another side, and all is right with the world.
As tempting as it is to stuff a single large pumpkin, though, the degree of difficulty rises along with the poundage. A jack-o’-lantern-size specimen can require as much oven space as a turkey, and if its flesh gets too tender to hold the filling, well, you’ve got a disaster on your hands – or table.
It’s easier than ever to find small sugar or pie pumpkins and other winter squash, and they’re just the ticket for this preparation. Choose ones that are about two pounds or so, and each one can serve two guests, if not more. You can even use a variety of colors, for a striking presentation.
Next question: What to stuff it with?
I was more than intrigued when I spotted a recipe for Biryani Stuffed Pumpkins in a new cookbook, “The Vegetable: Recipes That Celebrate Nature” by Caroline Griffiths and Vicki Valsamis (Smith Street Books). The idea of using small pumpkins as vessels to cook one of my favorite Indian dishes seemed downright inspired.