Shrimp scampi is rarely awfulit’s unusual for things to go terribly wrong when garlic, wine and butter are involvedbut restaurant versions always make me wish I’d ordered differently. I have never been presented with the ultimate scampi, the one that I can almost taste when I peruse the menu: perfectly cooked, briny beauties in a garlicky, buttery (but not greasy) white wine sauce.
When I last made my way through a mediocre rendition, I decided it was time to realize this ideal scampi vision at home. Since shrimp are susceptible to overcooking, which can make them dry and tough, I gave my shrimp (1 1/2 pounds, enough to serve four) a short dunk in a saltwater solution to season them and help preserve moisture. I then heated extra-virgin olive oil in a skillet, sauteed a few cloves of minced garlic and a dash of red pepper flakes, and added the shrimp. Once the shrimp turned opaque, I splashed in some dry white wine and followed it with a chunk of butter, a big squeeze of lemon juice, and a sprinkle of parsley.
My guests and I didn’t go hungry that night, but the scampi was far from perfect. One problem was that the sauce separated into a butter-and-oil slick floating on top of the winenot ideal in the looks department or for dunking bread into. (While some serve shrimp scampi over a pile of spaghetti, I think it’s best with a crusty loaf.) Then there were the shrimp: Some were a little overdone, while others were still translucent. Finally, the overall dish was shy on both seafood and garlic flavors. For results that I’d be truly satisfied with, some adjustments were in order.
Shrimp Scampi
Servings: 4. Start to finish: 45 minutes
3 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sugar
11/2 pounds jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, shells reserved