The Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of the road trip season, and one of the best local options is the Wind River to Lewis River loop. It is a scenic route that is often driven by vintage car and motorcycle clubs, as well as folks intent on fishing, hiking, camping, boating, and more.
On May 20, a beautiful sunny day, my wife and I explored the loop and checked out many of the attractions.
Tall, green forests and verdant glades are set against a backdrop of high mountain peaks. The twists and turns force drivers to slow down and appreciate the natural beauty around them.
The route starts with a drive east along state Highway 14 with its views of the rugged Columbia River Gorge. At the city of Carson, take the Wind River Highway north.
After crossing the Old Man Pass you follow Curly Creek Road northwest. Take National Forest Road 90 west to state Highway 503, which leads you through the Lewis River Valley. You finish up in Woodland.
Some of the best camping can be found along the Wind River Road north of Carson. Three Forest Service Campgrounds beckon: Panther Creek, Beaver Campground, and Paradise Creek.
Panther Creek Campground
This campground offers quiet solitude, plenty of room between campsites, a creek for the kids to play in, and a number of nearby hiking trails.
Becky Lee and Tim Kinser of Portland were enjoying the bright sunshine and the peace and quiet of their Panther Creek campsite.
“This one is quieter than most, and the campsites are farther apart than most,” said Kinser.
“We like to camp the Oregon side, but it is easier to get here,” said Kinser.
Jack Thorne is the public service assistant at the Mount Adams Ranger District of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. He reports that almost all of the forest’s campgrounds are open, but there are exceptions.
“Some high elevation campsites won’t open until mid-June, typically,” said Thorne.
He also said that the campsites are typically crowded during the weekends. However, if you do not have a reservation, do not panic.
“The campgrounds are required to keep 30 percent of the sites for non-reservation campers,” said Thorne, “They are filled on a first-come first-served basis.”
“If people are a little bit flexible there is always a site to be had somewhere,” he said
Beaver Creek Campground
Further north are the Beaver and Paradise Creek campgrounds. According to Robin Rose, the Forest Recreation Manager for the Gifford Pinchot, these are some of the most popular campgrounds.
“They have drinking water, toilets, and hosts onsite. They are very nice campgrounds for kids,” said Rose.
The family-friendly Beaver Campground is a good jumping off point for anglers after spring salmon and summer steelhead. While the river within the campground is often filled with swimming children, there are good fishing options nearby.
Paradise Creek Campground
This is another family-friendly campground that is very popular. The site is nestled into thick woods along the creek.
Next up is the Old Man Pass, (elevation: 3040 feet). Shortly after the pass is the turnoff for the Curly Creek Road, which takes you to the McClellan Overlook. Great views of Mount St. Helens’ southern slopes are the reward for stopping here.
Swift Forest Campground
Curly Creek Road connects with National Forest Road 90 near the town of Northwoods, and a left turn onto the highway will take you to the Swift Forest Camp at the top of the Swift Reservoir.
This is a large campground that offers access to the lake, where good trout fishing and boating can be found. There is a swimming beach as well.
Follow NF Road 90 west and you are treated to excellent views of Swift Reservoir.
Ape Caves
One of the most popular diversions along the loop is the Ape Caves. A short hike takes you to these impressive lava tubes. Watch for the signs and be prepared for crowds on the weekends.
There are a number of good hiking trails in this area. A good one for kids is the Trail of Two Forests Interpretive site.
Trout and kokanee fishing
Eventually the highway crosses the Swift Power Canal. Trout anglers there were doing very well by fishing bait on the bottom by the bridge. However, don’t neglect the spinners. A short time spent casting a Rooster Tail brought plenty of strikes from the canal’s rainbow trout.
Continuing west along the NF Road 90 will bring you to Yale Lake, a hotspot for kokanee fishing and some great boating. The Beaver Bay Campground offers sites for shoreline camping.
Next is Merwin Reservoir, which offers parks with playgrounds for kids, boating, and excellent fishing for kokanee.
For many the trip is not finished until you have stopped for a bite and a brew at the Cougar Bar and Grill in Cougar. Very popular with the motorcycle clubs, it is also family friendly and offers very good food and service.
NF Road 90 turns into state Highway 503, which takes you to Woodland. From there, a short drive down I-5 takes you back to Vancouver.
Dispersal Camping tips
Almost the entire Gifford Pinchot NF is open to dispersal camping, which is where you camp in the forest, but not in a campground. However, the forest managers ask you to follow these guidelines when you do:
• Camp at least 100 feet from the water.
• Leave the site better than you found it.
• Pack everything out that you bring in.
