Aches and pains demand redress, which is to say complaining. Failing that cure, aspirin, hot tea and nap are indicated. The condition resistant to such treatment is acute, and sure to deteriorate: Booking a medical appointment induces its own aches and pains.
Many a patient who has exhausted tea and nap and doctor finds himself seeking a specialist, perhaps at a far-flung hospital, perhaps in a far-flung state, perhaps at a far-fetched price.
Which may provide relief. He is grateful for the care — but hardly surprised. This hospital is named for the kitchen’s best remedy: Mayo.
Tomato Tonnato
Prep: 10 minutes. Makes: About 2 cups tonnato sauce.
1 jar (6.7 ounces) fancy tuna (or substitute one 5-ounce can tuna in oil), drained
½ cup olive oil
3 anchovies
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 cup mayonnaise
Kosher salt
White sandwich bread
Beautiful, ripe, fresh tomatoes
Flaky salt
Capers, drained, rinsed and patted dry
1. Swirl: Pile into the food processor the tuna, oil, anchovies, lemon juice and zest. Swirl to a smooth paste, stopping and scraping down sides as needed, about 30 seconds.
2. Chill: Scrape paste into a bowl. Whisk in mayo. Taste this tonnato sauce, and whisk in kosher salt to taste. Cover and chill. Makes about 2 cups.
3. Enjoy: For the season’s best tomato sandwich, lightly toast two slices white bread. Slather with tonnato. Slice tomatoes into thick circles. Pile onto one slice of bread. Sprinkle with flaky salt and dot with a few capers. Close up sandwich and enjoy.
4. Create: Unless you compile a picnic’s worth of sandwiches, you’ll be blessed with leftover tonnato. The classic approach is to slice cold poached veal, douse and chill overnight. Tonnato also is delightful alongside sliced boiled eggs or tossed with roasted broccoli, green beans or other late-summer vegetables.
