In her comprehensive piece on compound butter for The Washington Post in 2002, Renee Schettler offers a base recipe that starts with 1 stick (8 tablespoons/4 ounces) of butter. (Keep in mind that smaller amounts can be harder to work with.) First, beat the butter on its own to make it smooth, getting it as light and fluffy as you want, depending on whether you prefer it denser or airier. Add a pinch of salt and your flavoring ingredients (more on that below), and combine thoroughly. Adjust the seasoning to taste before scraping the butter onto a sheet of parchment or wax paper (plastic wrap can be less ideal if it’s not smooth and the wrinkles get stuck in the solidified butter), close to one of the long ends. Roll the butter into about a 1-inch diameter cylinder, twist the ends of the paper (if the log is looking a bit wonky, this step helps even it out) and refrigerate or freeze. The butter will keep in the fridge for 3 to 5 days and the freezer for several months.
Flavor to taste. Deshaies recommends keeping your flavoring ingredients to about 30 percent of the final product, tweaking as necessary to accommodate stronger (salty anchovies, spicy pepper) or weaker (more delicate herbs) flavors. “You still want the main flavor to be butter,” the chef says. After that, it’s up to you.
“This is the beauty of it,” Deshaies says. “You can be extremely creative.”
Classic additions, separately or together, are garlic, parsley and shallot. Citrus is a natural, too, whether it’s zest, juice or even something like preserved lemon or lemon confit. The possibilities with dried spices are almost endless. Schettler’s piece also includes variations with cheese, mustard, olives and even alcohol. You can lean sweet, too, incorporating jams, freeze-dried fruit (ground to a fine powder in the food processor), crystallized ginger and warming spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg.
Avoid turning the butter soupy with excessive amounts of liquid. Too much liquid may change how the butter sets and melts. And keep in mind that you want your butter to be free of large chunks. So finely chop your firmer ingredients. Deshaies, though, says you can have some fun with texture with such additions as finely chopped peanuts, fried grains of rice and quinoa that can leave behind a crunchy garnish as the butter melts. Ditto finely chopped chives on the outside of an herbed butter.