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News / Life / Clark County Life

Cuckoo for kuchen: This German cake proves an easy, adaptable dessert

It's not only delicious, but therapeutic to prepare

By Monika Spykerman, Columbian staff reporter
Published: April 23, 2025, 6:10am
4 Photos
Sweet, juicy honey mangoes (aka ataulfo mangoes) are in season right now — so why not make a kuchen, and throw in a few raspberries?
Sweet, juicy honey mangoes (aka ataulfo mangoes) are in season right now — so why not make a kuchen, and throw in a few raspberries? (Monika Spykerman/The Columbian) Photo Gallery

Whenever I suffer an emotional blow, I have a coded phrase that my husband and daughter both understand. I say, “The urchin has been activated.” That’s because I have a sea urchin living in my chest and whenever something hurts me, the urchin wakes up and starts poking me with its spikes. Sometimes the urchin is only activated for a few hours or days but sometimes it can go on for weeks, interrupting my sleep and draining pleasure out of joyful things. My urchin was very active for several years after my mom died and sometimes I felt like I couldn’t breathe, those spikes were so sharp.

The upside of all my urchin experience is that when the urchin strikes, I’ve developed strategies to deal with it. No. 1: I complain very loudly to my husband. He’s my chief urchin tamer. He listens well and says sensible things and eventually the urchin gives up and goes back to its hole. My daughter is also very good at urchin-wrangling. The urchin can’t resist her calm sympathy and good humor and she has the little echinoderm practically purring in no time.

Occasionally, the urchin resists coaxing, digs in and makes me miserable. Then I have to deploy my personal array of sea otters, starfish and crabs — the urchin’s natural predators — to show it who’s boss. My go-to method is reading fiction, because that immediately takes my attention away from pokey urchin spines. If that fails, I write. If I can get my thoughts down on paper and sort them out logically, that’s the equivalent of an urchinectomy. Writing about the urchin allows me to get it outside my body so I can see that it’s really just a little thing and easily dealt with.

The next line of defense is to do something constructive, either for myself or someone else. This is tough because, when I’m having an urchin attack, I really don’t want to do anything. Any kind of movement or action hurts too much (or at least I think it will). The key here is to ignore the pain and go do the thing and then pretty soon I’m involved in the activity and I’m not thinking about the urchin anymore. Gardening is great for de-urchin-ification. So is drawing or painting or anything creative. Tackling a cleaning or organizational project is guaranteed to substantially reduce urchin pain.

I’ve had an unruly urchin this week so I’ve been doing a lot of reading, plus I cleaned out my closet and did a couple gardening projects. Fortunately, cooking and baking definitely falls under the “something constructive” category, so I decided to try a brand-new recipe: rhubarb kuchen. (“Kuchen” is German for “cake,” and can refer to a variety of baked goods.) Rhubarb season starts in April but I couldn’t find anything at my local grocery store. However, the small, yellow honey mangoes were on sale. They’re in season from March to July. I thought, “Why the heck can’t I make mango kuchen?” So, I bought five soft mangos.

I’ve never made kuchen before but it sounded delicious to me and seemed easy. The recipe starts with a shortbread crust of flour, sugar, salt and butter, pressed into the bottom of an 11-by-7-inch baking dish. Fresh fruit is layered over that and topped with a custard mixture which sets while baking. After chilling for a couple of hours, the kuchen is fully set and ready to slice.

I did manage to go off track in a couple ways. The five mangoes equaled only 2 cups after I peeled and chopped them. I was still 1 cup short of fruit so I added 1 cup of frozen raspberries. The fruit was very tart so I mixed them with ¼ cup sugar before layering them on the crust, but the dessert probably didn’t need that extra sugar. The other goof was kind of big: I had a brain glitch and momentarily thought that 1/2 cup butter equaled two sticks instead of one stick, so my kuchen is very buttery and rich. In spite of that — or perhaps because of that? — it’s still quite delicious and I’d like to try it again with the proper amount of butter.

I wondered if maybe I had invented a new recipe but I searched online and found that yes, mango kuchen already existed long before I thought of it. However, I couldn’t find any recipes for mango raspberry kuchen, so maybe that’s a genuinely new twist. I will always think of it as Anti-Urchin Kuchen, or “Keine Seeigel Kuchen” in German, not to be confused with Anti-Seagull Kuchen, which is what I make when attacked by seagulls, which could happen at any moment. They might be hungry for urchins.

Mango Raspberry Kuchen

Crust:

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter

2 cups chopped very ripe mango

1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries

Custard:

3 eggs

1½ cups sugar

½ cup half and half

¼ teaspoon nutmeg or cardamom

Dash salt

Optional dusting of powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Make the crust by mixing flour, sugar and salt. Cut in butter with a pastry blender or fork until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Lightly press crust mixture into an 11-by-7-inch baking pan and up the sides of the pan at least 1 inch. Peel and chop five small honey mangos (aka ataulfo mangoes) and put them in a bowl along with 1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries. Spread fruit atop crust. Make the custard by beating together eggs, sugar, nutmeg or cardamom and a dash of salt. Pour the custard mixture over the fruit. Bake for one hour or until the center is set and the edges are turning golden brown. Cool then chill for two hours. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.

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