Curly endive, or frisee, is my go-to salad green through winter. The frizzy emerald leaves and creamy interior are lightly bitter and sturdy, and add oomph to rich, hearty cold-weather dishes.
Best known for its role in the French bistro salad Lyonnaise, made of tossed frisee, lardons of bacon and topped with a poached egg, this endive is open to a range of options. The distinct tangy leaves just need an easy, vibrant vinaigrette, and they take nicely to bold ingredients — nuts, cheeses, avocado and roasted vegetables, as well as fresh and dried fruit.
Frisee leaves can be dressed ahead without danger of wilting. While the pale interior leaves are mild and tender, the bitterness of the darker outer leaves may need to be tamed; a few minutes soaked in an ice bath can do the trick. Just pat them dry before dressing.
The cold-weather greens are now at their best; the leaves sweeten just before frost. Find it in co-ops and grocery stores as well as select winter farmers markets. Look for bright green heads that look springy. When home, wrap the head in a damp paper towel and store in a loosely fastened plastic bag in the crisper compartment of the refrigerator; it will stay fresh for about a week.