You won’t miss the eggs in these desserts

PITTSBURGH — Eggs have been a baker’s best friend for, well, maybe forever.

They help bind everything in a recipe together while also making the end product flavorful and tender. It’s perfection in a perfect little egg-shaped package.

Another reason to love eggs is that until recently, the delicate, protein-packed orbs have been easy to find and a relatively inexpensive recipe item found in every home cook’s refrigerator.

Avian flu, which has affected more than 23 million egg-laying chickens in some 150 commercial and backyard flocks across the U.S., has definitely changed that.

Eggs have gotten so expensive and scarce across the country that prices are up 153 percent over a year ago and some grocery stores, including ones in Pittsburgh, have placed strict limits on how many cartons a consumer can buy in a single day.

With the Easter baking season approaching (paska! hot cross buns! spring cakes and cookies!), some bakers are understandably in a slow-rise panic. At $5, $7 or even $10 a dozen for organic, pasture-raised eggs, making a batch of brownies or baking a cake seem like a luxury. Especially since it does not appear prices will return to normal anytime soon. (The USDA predicts egg prices will increase by 20 percent in 2025.)

“I see this as almost the same as during the pandemic,” says Joe Peroney, development chef for Giant Eagle. “People are scared and impulse buying when they see them,” which only exacerbates the problem.

Also, you can only safely keep eggs for about three to five weeks in the fridge.

Yet, as those who follow a vegan diet or suffer from allergies know all too well, there are some common substitutes for eggs in recipes that work just fine and cost considerably less.

As two-time James Beard semifinalist and Wilkinsburg, Pennsylvania, pasty chef Casey Renee of Confections notes with a wry laugh, “We have to adjust or we’re not going to eat cookies.”

“The vegan community has done it for years,” agrees Peroni. “There are definite hacks to get around not using eggs.”

First, a primer

Eggs actually serve multiple purposes in baking.

The fat in yolks is what gives so many muffins, cakes and pastries their extra-rich flavor and lovely, velvety texture, says Peroney. But other parts of the egg are just as important in creating a terrific baked good.

The water content in eggs provides moisture for dry ingredients in a recipe, ensuring a smooth batter. Egg proteins — a complete source of essential amino acids found in both the yolk and the white — also add structure by emulsifying when they’re whisked.

Egg whites, when beaten, also act a leavening agent during baking, which allows the batter to rise in a hot oven.

Looking to cut calories or combat a food allergy?

Liquid commercial egg replacement products such as Egg Beaters, which are marketed as a healthy alternative to eggs, are basically egg whites supplemented with various flavorings, vitamins, food coloring and the thickeners xanthan gum and guar gum.

Dry egg replacement products such as Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free Vegan Egg Replacer, which is hydrated with water, is made from potato starch, tapioca flour, baking soda and psyllium husk, a fiber supplement used to treat digestive problems.

As for grading, U.S. grade AA eggs have thick, firm whites and high, round yolks that are practically free from defects. Grade A have whites that may be thinner and yolks that may be wider and flatter than eggs of higher grades. Both come in a variety of sizes that are about 1.5 ounces for small; 1.5-1.75 ounces for medium; 1.75-2 ounces for large (the standard used in most recipes); 27 ounces per dozen for extra-large; and at least 30 ounces per dozen for jumbo.

Is there much of a difference between commodity, cage-free, pasture-raised and free-range eggs? Only if you care about the health of the chickens, says Peroni.

“Cage free just means they have access to the outside,” he says. “It’s up to the farmer to decide how much time is granted each day.”

Art Inzinga, who heads up Community College of Allegheny County’s Culinary Institute, agrees the average home cook probably won’t be able to taste the difference between a commodity egg and its organic cousin. That said, he’s partial to Eggland’s Best, which are produced on farms throughout the U.S. and distributed locally.

Commodity eggs, adds Renee, are also more consistent when it comes to weight.

Duck eggs, which are available in Asian markets and special groceries like Whole Foods, have a more pronounced flavor and a richer yolk than chicken eggs. They’re also larger, so you’ll need fewer of them for a recipe.

How to substitute

While there is no complete 1-1 substitute for an egg, there are some easy plant-based swaps home bakers can make using everyday pantry ingredients.

One of the most user-friendly is aquafaba, the liquid you find in a can of chickpeas.

A longtime friend to vegan bakers and mixologists, aquafaba is the liquid left over from cooked chickpeas. While it doesn’t add a lot of structure, it will whip into to meringue like egg whites without adding flavor or color.

Low in calories and cholesterol free, “it will give lightness and leavening to a dish,” says Peroney.

The brownies I made with aquafaba were fabulous — maybe a little crumbly right out the oven, but wonderfully moist and rich in flavor. (My colleagues scarfed them down in minutes.) The liquid also works in bread, cakes and cookies.

As for the leftover chickpeas? Use them to make hummus or add them to a salad or soup.

Chia and flax seeds, both of which are good sources of fiber and rich in omega-3 fatty acids, also can be used in a variety of recipes. Mixed with water, they become thick and gelatinous — almost like a paste. While you probably don’t want to use this hack in something that’s light and fluffy like pancakes (it doesn’t aerate very well), they’re great for low-rising baked goods like quick breads, cookies, bars and brownies.

I used chia “eggs” in one of my favorite family recipes — an old-fashioned banana bread made with shortening. The loaf looked, sliced and toasted up almost the same as the original recipe made with eggs. Even my husband, who is vehemently opposed to chia seeds, had to admit he couldn’t tell the difference.

Renee also uses flax seed instead of eggs in her recipes, including her blueberry muffins.

“And people don’t even know they’re vegan,” she says.

Rather go with something a little easier to find on a grocery store aisle? If you’re making something you want to be moist, mashed banana or applesauce can come to the rescue.

Applesauce contains pectin, a natural hydrocolloid (gel) that provides structure and texture to baked goods. Banana, thanks to its sticky nature, also acts as a binder while providing moisture and sweetness.

While Renee probably wouldn’t use applesauce to make a chocolate cake — it would make the batter too dense — she happily adds it to her vegan recipe for peanut butter cookies. (Which are awesome.) Applesauce and mashed bananas also work as an egg substitute in quick breads, muffins and heavier cakes like pound cakes.

Pureed silken tofu, which is basically flavorless and closely resembled beaten eggs when blended in a mixer, also works well in adding moisture to quick breads and hearty muffins, and it makes one heck of a creamy, protein-packed base for chocolate mousse — with none of the cholesterol found in eggs.

Because it’s so soft and won’t hold its shape, silken tofu is not a great choice for baked goods that require a firm, crisp texture (like cookies or bread).

While we’re collectively holding our breath until eggs are once again cheap and plentiful, Renee sees a silver lining in the current shortage.

“Think of this as a fun challenge,” she says.

Like most bakers, the pastry chef is always exploring and trying new things in her bakery, both to keep costs down and create a superior product.

“You have to taste and see what [the baked good] is missing,” she says, “and what else gives it richness.”

Learning which egg substitutes work, and which fail miserably in your favorite treat, will only make you a better baker, she adds.

“For those who love to bake, it can be fun again” when you learn to think outside the box.

Egg-free Fudgy Brownies

Makes 9 brownies. Chef Joe Peroney, Giant Eagle

A friend to vegan bakers, aquafaba is the liquid left over from cooked chickpeas. While it doesn’t add much structure, it will whip into meringue like egg whites.

1/2 cups aquafaba (chickpea liquid)

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1 stick unsalted butter (8 tablespoons)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Line an 8-by-8-inch pan with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Beat aquafaba with cream of tartar for 5 minutes until stiff peaks form. (I used my stand mixer with whisk attachment, but you can use an electric hand mixer.)

Slowly add sugar, about 1/4 cup at a time, until it’s all incorporated. It should be very fluffy at this point with stiff peaks. Beat in the vanilla and set aside.

In a microwave safe bowl, add chocolate chips and butter. Melt in the microwave in 30-second intervals, whisking well at each interval, until melted.

Pour the melted chocolate/butter mixture into the aquafaba mixture and stir gently with a spatula. The aquafaba mixture will shrink at this point but that is fine.

In a medium bowl, whisk flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt together until combined and no clumps remain. If your cocoa is really clumpy, use a sifter.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet and stir until combined using a spatula.

Pour the brownie batter into the prepared pan, even it out with a spatula and bake for 35-37 minutes until the top is shiny.

Let cool for at least 30 minutes as the brownies will firm up as they cool. Enjoy!

Vegan Peanut Butter Cookies

Makes 4 dozen cookies. Casey Renee, Confections by Casey Renee

Casey Renee uses Violife plant butter at her Wilkinsburg bakery, but for a non-vegan option, you also can use regular butter. Just be sure to cut the salt in half if the stick is salted.

She calls for portioning the batter with a quarter-cup scoop, which resulted in a giant, waffle-sized cookie. After one batch, I switched to using just a tablespoon for much smaller cookies.

As a professional baker, Renee weighs all her ingredients; to make it easier for the home cook who might not own a digital scale, I’ve included approximate measurements in cups and tablespoons.

Note to self: This is one crispy, absolutely delicious cookie.

225 grams vegan butter, unsalted (about 2 sticks)

200 grams sugar (about 1 cup)

175 grams light brown sugar (14 tablespoons)

250 grams natural unsweetened smooth peanut butter (1 cup)

100 grams applesauce, unsweetened (1/2 cup)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

375 grams all purpose flour (3 cups)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

In a stand mixer with paddle attachment, cream butter and regular and brown sugar on medium until pale and fluffy,.

Add in peanut butter and mix until combined.

Add applesauce and vanilla and continue mixing until well combined. Scrape with spatula. Slowly add in flour, baking powder and soda, cornstarch and salt and mix until just combined.

Portion dough with a quarter cup-sized ice cream scooper, place on cookie trays and put the fork indent on top.

Chill for at least one hour before baking, then dust with granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake cookies for 15 minutes, or until cracks begin to form on top.

Egg-free Banana Bread

Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

This easy banana bread recipe, which was handed down from a friend of my maternal grandma, is a treasured family favorite. So I was skeptical about substituting chia seed “eggs.” Why mess with a perfect recipe?

I’m happy to report it (mostly) worked. My loaf wasn’t as fluffy as one made with eggs, and the seeds added a slightly nutty flavor. But they bound together the batter perfectly — and I love that they also added some fiber.

To make a chia seed egg, mix 1 tablespoon chia seeds with 3 tablespoons water. Mix well to combine and let sit for 5 minutes until it forms a gel.

If you can’t fathom baking with shortening — all the rage when this recipe was developed in Oil City in the early 1900s — substitute real butter.

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup shortening

2 chia seed “eggs”

3 large overripe bananas, mashed

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In large bowl, cream sugar and shortening together. Add chia eggs and beat until light and creamy. Add mashed bananas and mix to combine.

Fold in flour, baking soda and salt. Mix well to combine, then pour into a greased or parchment paper-lined 9-by-3-inch loaf pan.

Bake for 1 hour, or until the top is crispy brown and cake tester or toothpick placed near the center of the loaf comes out clean.

Silken Tofu Chocolate Mousse

Serves 4. Eric Capozzoli, UPMC dietitian

This protein-rich dessert comes together in minutes using silken tofu, which has a softer consistency than regular tofu. (It will fall apart between your fingers if you don’t handle it carefully.)

I used semi-sweet chocolate chips because they were on sale, and added a healthy squirt of Reddi Wip (also on sale).

4 1/2 ounces roughly chopped dark chocolate

1 16-ounce package organic silken tofu at room temperature, rinsed and drained

2 1/2 tablespoons maple syrup

Whipped cream or fresh fruit for topping, optional

Melt chocolate over a double boiler or in the microwave (low power) in 30-second intervals, stirring each time, until chocolate is melted. Set aside to cool at room temperature.

Rinse the silken tofu and pat dry.

Add melted chocolate and blend until well combined.

Scoop the mixture into 4 ramekins or glasses and refrigerate for 30 minutes prior to serving.

Leftovers will keep in the fridge for 3-4 days.