Corned cauliflower perfect for St. Patrick’s Day

Corned beef, which makes an appearance on many St. Patrick’s Day tables, isn’t the only food to which “corning,” or salt-curing, can be applied. Corning originally was named for the corn kernel-size pellets of salt used to preserve meat in times before refrigeration, but the method today is used to permeate food with flavor.

For a vegetable-forward take on the classic boiled dinner, we submerge a whole head of cauliflower in a spice-infused brine for several hours, allowing thorough absorption. Salt also weakens the cellular walls of the vegetable by drawing moisture out of them, rendering the vegetable more tender.

To ensure the brine reaches into the dense core, we use a paring knife to pierce into the stem end before dropping the head into the hot liquid. After removing it and patting it dry, into the oven it goes.

To finish, a mixture of butter and whole-grain mustard is slathered on the brined vegetable before it’s coated with dill and panko breadcrumbs and returned to the oven until the surface is nicely browned. Every bit of the cauliflower ends up deliciously seasoned, and its meaty yet tender texture is complemented by the crispness of the breadcrumb crust.

Cut into wedges for serving, the cauliflower makes a fine vegetarian main or side.

Roasted “Corned” Cauliflower

Start to finish: 1 hour (25 minutes active), plus cooling and brining. Servings: 4

4 bay leaves

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons caraway seeds

1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon white sugar

Kosher salt

2-pound head cauliflower, trimmed, core pierced several times with a paring knife (see headnote)

2 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, divided

¼ cup panko breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil

In a large saucepan over medium-low, toast the bay, coriander, caraway, mustard seeds, peppercorns and pepper flakes, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 2 quarts water, the sugar and 3 tablespoons salt; bring to a boil over medium-high. Carefully add the cauliflower, stem side down, then cover and turn off the heat. The cauliflower will float; it’s fine if the top of the head is not submerged. Let cool until barely warm, then refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.

When you are ready to cook the cauliflower, heat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Remove the cauliflower from the brine and thoroughly pat it dry. Place it stem side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until lightly browned and a skewer inserted all the way through the head and into the core meets some resistance, 40 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the butter, mustard and 1 tablespoon dill. In another small bowl, combine the panko, oil and remaining 1 tablespoon dill; stir until the breadcrumbs are evenly moistened.

When the cauliflower is done, remove the baking sheet from the oven. Brush the butter mixture evenly over the entire head, then apply the panko mixture in an even layer, lightly pressing so it adheres. Return to the oven and roast until the coating is golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the cauliflower to a cutting board. Cut the head into wedges for serving.