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Go bananas over bistro’s breakfast

The Columbian
Published: December 25, 2009, 12:00am

Why: Farrar’s Bistro describes itself as a neighborhood grill, but it’s well worth the jaunt to the Felida area to sample the restaurant’s varied menu, which includes such main course dishes as Dijon Crusted Rack of Lamb and Wild Mushroom Farfalle.

If you haven’t paid a visit to Farrar’s recently, the dining options have broadened. This stylish little eatery has added a breakfast menu Saturday and Sunday with such highlights as Banana Bread French Toast and a Denver Omelet, which can be enjoyed with a Mimosa or Bloody Mary.

Atmosphere: Farrar’s welcomes the whole family to its petite dining room, which is decked out in a rich color palette of burgundy, black and tan. The wood floor gives the sophisticated decor a touch of farmhouse feel.

Tables are set for parties of two or four. Along two walls, there’s comfy upholstered booth-style seating.

What I tried: I decided on the Banana Bread French Toast with two sides, Home Fries and bacon.

This dish was made with delicious homemade banana bread, though mine did not have a discernable egg-batter coating. Instead, my serving tasted as though it was simply toasted and sprinkled with powdered sugar. The bread was served with sliced banana pieces on top. A generous amount of whipped cream was placed alongside the toast, as was a serving of fresh fruit including a slice of pineapple, a strawberry and orange pieces. Butter was not included, though a small cup of syrup was.

The toast tasted best to me when I dipped it in the whipped cream as opposed to the syrup. I found the syrup, which the restaurant later told me was Lumberjack brand, to be extremely stringy and lacking a true maple-rich flavor. Although the Banana Bread French Toast broke from tradition, it was adventurous and enjoyable. Having said that, I would have preferred real maple syrup.

The Home Fries at Farrar’s are made with red potatoes cubed into various sizes then seasoned and fried before they’re roasted in the oven. Chopped red and green bell pepper and onions are incorporated to finish them off. I enjoyed the fresh bell pepper and onion, which infused the potatoes with flavor. The cooking method made all the difference. I find that when these ingredients are fried with the potatoes, they can add too much sweetness.

The bacon was very flavorful. It appeared to be crisp, but it was cooked to maintain an appetizing chewiness. It was some of the best bacon I’ve tasted.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The description of Farrar’s Vegetarian Omelet sounded appealing. It is made with three eggs, tomato, mushroom, onion and spinach and is topped off with Monterey Jack cheese. The omelet is served with Farrar’s Home Fries and toast. Pancakes come with two sausage patties or bacon and may be ordered old-fashioned style or in a blueberry version.

Other observations: The service was friendly, and our waiter checked back often for coffee refills. Though the decor at Farrar’s is cozy, I found the dining room to be a bit chilly when I visited during our recent patch of very cold weather.

While the breakfast menu is available only on the weekend, Farrar’s offers a selection of housemade muffins and scones on weekdays.

Cost: Breakfast meals range from $7.95 to $9.50. Sides are $1.25 to $3.50. Milk, orange juice and cranberry juice are $2.75 each. Bottomless Mimosa is $8.95. Lunch soups and salads are $3.95 to $11.95. Sandwiches and wraps are $8.75 to $10.25. Dinner options start at $3.95 and top out at $24.95. Desserts are $3.25 to $6.25 and children’s menu items are $5.50 at lunch and dinner. There is not a separate kids’ menu for breakfast.

Hours: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday. Breakfast served on Saturday and Sunday only, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Telephone: 360-571-7005.

On the Web: farrarsbistro.com.

Where: 12514 N.W. 36th Ave., Vancouver.

Health score: Farrar’s Bistro received a score of 10 on Nov. 25. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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